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Showing posts with label Books. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Books. Show all posts

a poem by PROUST


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 jacques emile blanche



" Narrative Art, the Novel-from Murasaki to Proust, has produce great works of poetry. 
Slowly poetry becomes visual because it paints images, but it also musical.
It unites two arts into one."- Eugenio Montale.


It could not be more so than with Proust.



"What was once chic is now trashy Mme. Swann is a creature of fashion. She is passionately devoted to her aesthetic ideals, even if they are continually changing." ( Eric Karple from Paintings in Proust )


detail of 'The Cousins' by Watteau





""Nowadays it was rarely in Japanese kimonos that Odette received her intimates, but rather in the  bright and billowing silk of a Watteau housecoat whose flowering foam she would make as though to rub gently over her bosom, and in which she basked, lolled disported herself with such an air of well-being, of cool freshness, taking such deep breaths, that she seemed to look on these garments not as something decorative, a mere setting for herself, but as necessary, in the same ways as her 'tub' or her daily 'constitutional,' to satisfy the requirements of her physiognomy and the niceties of hygiene. "


 'La Gioconda'  Leonardo da Vinci

"She used to often to say that she would go without bread rather than give up art and cleanliness, and that the burning of the 'Gioconda' would distress her infinitely more than the destruction, by the same  element, of the 'millions' of people she knew. "



& his music

“The year before, at an evening party, he had heard a piece of music played on the piano and violin. At first he had appreciated only the material quality of the sounds which those instruments secreted. And it had been a source of keen pleasure when, below the delicate line of the violin-part, slender but robust, compact and commanding, he had suddenly become aware of the mass of the piano-part beginning to emerge in a sort of liquid rippling of sound, multiform but indivisible, smooth yet restless, like the deep blue tumult of the sea, silvered and charmed into a minor key by the moonlight. But then at a certain moment, without being able to distinguish any clear outline, or to give a name to what was pleasing him, suddenly enraptured, he had tried to grasp the phrase or harmony — he did not know which — that had just been played and that had opened and expanded his soul, as the fragrance of certain roses, wafted upon the moist air of evening, has the power of dilating one’s nostrils."



Fantin Latour's 'Roses & Lilies' 1888


An old cetifolia rose from the days of  Victoria or before, carries the name Rosa Fantin Latour. Its intoxicating fragrance must have been what -like the music- stirred Swann's own soul.  The rose is named after painter Henri Fantin-Latour.



"He would rap on the pane, and she would hear the signal, and answer, before going to meet him at the front door. He would find, lying open on the piano, some of her favourite music, the Valses des Roses, the Pauvre Fou of Tagliafico (which, according to the instructions embodied in her will, was to be played at her funeral); but he would ask her, instead, to give him the little phrase from Vinteuil's sonata. It was true that Odette played vilely, but often the most memorable impression of a piece of music is one that has arisen out of a jumble of wrong notes struck by unskilled fingers upon a tuneless piano. The little phrase continued to be associated in Swann's mind with his love for Odette."


Proust's Vinteuil Sonata is fictional-but becomes irrevocably attached to Swann in his reveries & reality. Proust's own affection for composer Cesar Franck led him to seek out a string quartet to play Franck's Violin Sonata for him in his private rooms.  Speculation from Proust devotees is that  little phrase  Swann heard was  Franck's.












quotes in lilac italics from Proust's In Search of Lost Time
& from Alain de Botton's book presented by the BBC with Ralph Fiennes as ProustHow Proust Can Change you Life
 Proust's Vinteuil read more here & here 
on Franck here

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a Case for the Misses Leavenworth

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detective novels, mysteries- I love them. I've read some or all of titles of Poe, Wilkie Collins , Arthur Conan Doyle Gaston Leroux and of course Agatha Christie & Dorothy Sayers.  To think I had until just this moment missed "the Mother of the Detective Story," Anna Katharine Green- pains me. I have remedied that and if you have had the same fate I suggest The Leavenworth Case.




It seems Anna Katharine introduced her ongoing series of  stories with Detective Ebenezer Gryce solving murders a full nine years be for Conan Doyle did his Sherlock novels.  Fortunately Detective Gryce has help from a gentleman-Raymond- who can traverse the intrigues of New York society where Gryce can not. Gouty Gryce is likeable, but Raymond is more intriguing and it is from his point of view the murder of a distinguished Mr. Leavenworth and the subsequent evidence that is piling up at the door of one of his two nieces. Both Mary & Eleanore are great beauties & the deeper Mr, Raymond delves into the crime the more he becomes emotionally entangled with both the women.



I can't fault  Green's style-a bit stilted- but some how suggestive of Edith Wharton, I was caught up in the plot rather quickly . Perhaps it is the era Green sets her Case in but I couldn't help think of Wharton & the heroines in her novels-trapped by society's dictates with little to recourse but a successful marriage. Green, a Brooklyn native and the daughter of a criminal attorney, published The Leavenworth Case in 1878.  Green married Charles Rohlfs,  an internationally known furniture designer in 1884.  She went on to publish mysteries with female sleuths-a  society spinster Amelia Butterworth, said to be the prototype for Miss Marple & Violet Strange, debutante leading a secret life as a sleuth.
I have to read these of course- I've got a case.




the romantic langour of Albert Joseph Moore's paintings seem to capture the mood of Mr. Raymond as he falls deeper and deeper under the spell of the two cousins.

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the just right room

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often a really good night's sleep eludes me.
there are reasons-a too good book that can not be put to rest.
a sudden doze &  jolt- a story that wakes me- luring on to one more page-

did I sleep? did I dream? did I lose my page?





sometimes it just doesn't happen.
are there too many books in my room?










that my bedroom could double as a library might not help-
but I would rather lose sleep than books.















my quest for sleep leads me to quests for the perfect bedroom-a perfect place where sleep never eludes.
I don't seek the most chic, or most stylish

I only seek the most alluring-


 scene from The Little Princess


that just right one that eluded the blonde in the fairy story.



oh so charming-
but maybe a too small-
would I still feel a bit over run?



there are books in abundance here too.


bedroom of Stephen Long, London from English Style




this one- 
though not a lover of yellow-
this has me thinking I might love sleeping in a field of yellow daisies. 
I do love the cocooning effect of the canopied curtains.


decoration by Stephen Sills



as I imagine living in one large space one day- 
 something on the order of one of these iconic rooms  that would be just right.


Nancy Lancaster's HaseleyCourt 




the bedroom of  Isabelle D'Ornano, Left Bank Paris



 yes-
one of these might be just right.



the bedroom of Pauline de Rothschild at Mouton, France



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Silk Pirates: Abraham & Gustav Zumsteg

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“ART IS A WELLSPRING OF INSPIRATION THAT NEVER RUNS DRY” Gustav Zumsteg


Sommer  of 1971


This is one of the must have books for your library if you are serious about Textiles- Soie Pirate. The History of Abraham Ltd (volume 1) and Soie Pirate. The Fabric Designs of Abraham Ltd. (Volume 2) .The set of books covers the important  Abraham Textile archives that were donated to the Swiss Museum by the Hilda and Gustav Zumsteg Foundation  in 2007. The archives were exhibited at the Landesmuseum Zürich this winter 2011.




Abraham's bold graphics at the exhibition




 MATISSE
from Gustav Zumsteg's Private Art Collection








Abraham Ltd. began with Jakob Abraham in 1878, but the story here is the dynamic Gustav Zumsteg-an integral part of the legendary company. Partnering with Ludwig Abraham in 1943, after serving as an apprentice, Gustav Zumsteg's innovations and artistry established the company's reputation as the premiere maker of luxe fabrics to the couture houses of Paris. His artistry is stamped in Zumsteg's painterly abstract designs, exotic florals and butterflies and graphic checks.


MIRO 
 from the Zumsteg  Collection





from the Abraham Archives









from the moment Christian Dior launched his New Look-Zumsteg had Abraham right there on the pulse-supplying the designer with the sumptuous fabrics of the moment.




Dior 1955, Fotograf Forlano



Zumsteg was friend and collaborator to the haute couture designers-Balenciaga, Dior and Givenchy and an intimate of designer Yves Saint Laurent. Imagine juggling the desires of those legends and seeing to it that each had Abraham's best-and of course That Best did not overlap. He considered his friendship with Saint Laurent a "coup de foudre" with a shared love for books and music. The two phoned every Sunday to catch up and share stories as friends do-however there was a formality to their working relationship. Their closeness did intensify the design process and their collaborations were always inventive & original.








above images from the exhibition


Zumsteg on his craft:
"I feel instinctively what is happening in fashion; it's a process that almost never stops. My work and its realization in practice, the supervision of the designers, the contact with the dyers and weavers...are a logical continuation of this process, this instinct, this vigilance, this identification of myself with everything we call Fashion."  (from the book quoted from Die Weltwoche,1955)


Pierre Balmain, Sommer 1952. Fotograf André Ostier-Heil



By the mid 1950's Zumsteg was crowned-"the eminence grise of haute couture" with Dior's collection from 1955 featuring 30 of the Abraham silks alone. Neue Zurcher Zeitung qualified this title with the following-" It is the quality of this Zurich silk that delights the great couturiers-a quality that makes the most subtly nuance & radiantly exquisite color schemes possible."

more from the Archives













from Yves Saint Laurent upon Zumsteg''s death:
"Gustav Zumsteg was my ally, my friend and my collaborator for some 45 years, I used his fabric in my most beautiful dresses. His talent was a never-ending source of inspiration. I owe him many unforgettable moments."




scene from the exhibition in Zurich of the archives



By 1955 Abraham started cutting  four metres of their most beautiful fabrics to preserve in their archives.Fastidiously kept , the archives hold silk samples, press cuttings, and photographs pasted in scrap books.
The books have the tactile quality that Abraham silks had- pages of the scrapbooks - silk samples paired with photographs of runway shows- stars like Catherine Deneuve in YSL and Audrey Hepburn in Givenchy bring the book's pages to life.









“ART IS A WELLSPRING OF INSPIRATION THAT NEVER RUNS DRY” 
G.Zumsteg

a BONNARD painting from Gustav Zumsteg's Collection




also from the Zumsteg Collection - 
Jean Tinguely



Art was his Muse & his passion for Art  drove all of his textile designs. As well as being an artist-he collected. His art was displayed on the walls of his mother Hulda's famed Zurich restaurant-Kronenhalle.
The restaurant was a gathering place for designers and celebrity thanks to Zumsteg's client list-Pablo Picasso, Coco Chanel, Christian Dior, Richard Strauss, Igor Stravinsky, Plácido Domingo, Catherine Deneuve, and Yves Saint-Laurent.  Decorated with paintings by Chagall, Matisse, Miro, Kandinsky, Bonnard and the list goes on.


 The restaurant  reflects the elan & elegance of Gustav Zumsteg.






Chanel with company and Zumsteg dine at Kronehalle








Fine tuning was Zumsteg's secret-he was an absolute perfectionist. He would study a painting, travel to see exotic flowers just to nuance his designs-that is what set him apart. Wisely, with their concentration on design, Abraham did not produce their silks- discreetly outsourcing that aspect to other firm. One of its best-kept secrets was the Ratti Company in Como, Italy. Zumsteg travelled to Como almost every week to collaborate with owner Antonio Ratti. Their partnership thrived for more than thirty years.



of Gustav Zumsteg  Donatelli Ratti-Antonio Ratti's daughter remembers:


"His gaze was penetrating, and his eyes were a brilliant shade of blue... He would cry when moved-when he came into contact with something that was exceptionally beautiful."


Gustav Zumsteg



a George ROUAULT from the Zumsteg Art Collection


BONNARD




Zumsteg's collaborations with haute couture and his artistry elevated the business of textiles and the Abraham company as well. The archives serve as a validation of that and as a treasury for couture's greatest era.


Yves Saint Laurent's collaborations with Zumsteg



Sommer 1994, Yves Saint Laurent


YSL 1971




"Times have irrevocably changed, The way we once worked hasn't the same sense. It's not meaningful today." YSL


more about Zumsteg here
swiss info here

Images from the books & Images from these sites

christies Zumsteg's art

kultur-online

soie pirate

couleurblind

photointern

fashion affair.com

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