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Showing posts with label John Fowler. Show all posts
Showing posts with label John Fowler. Show all posts

why don't you?

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 Colette and Nicky
at the UK Redeeming Features book launch


this is one of the things I must do. No-not get busy working out, well- Yes that too- but I am thinking about that DRESS.
Colette van den Thillart, Creative Director of Nicky Haslam Designs  is wearing Shutter Stripe fabric ! She says" I had it specially printed in this ‘Grisailles Grey’ so that’s a bit of a cheat – but it did turn heads!"

She looks fantastic- I have always loved the fabric and now Colette says "we have started producing this in 12 colourways as part of the Random Harvest Collection by Nicky Haslam for NH Design."




Colette with fellow Canadian Katharina Flohr, creative director of Faberge


This fabric was one of John Fowler's favourites. I wrote about the Prince and heir apparent NH- here -'the Shutter Stripe is nothing but one of the most clever fabrics I have ever seen-Well does that make Colette's dress one of the most clever then?
Yes.
She remarked when quizzed about the reaction: "Funny enough not that many people ‘clocked it’ at the UK party, but when I wore it in NY..Stephen Drucker, Mitchell Owens and a host of other Fowlerites spotted it right away."


a Fowler room dressed in Colette's dress




I have stowed back a dozen fabrics or more over the years to have something done up to wear.
A Scalamandre silk lampas will be a dress coat , a Kelly Wearstler embroidery- a weskit, a perfect shade of grey glazed chintz- a tailored suit, a Glant sparkling black polymide is awaiting the perfect evening skirt- and so goes the list. At some point I had a fine wiz at the machine but after smocking too many curtains, making too much looped cord trim for pillows and chevron quilting cornices- She suddenly took a very early retirement- I wonder why? I should have been feeding her threads and fabric to get these things made.

Now I have to make a start-
& I should maybe add Shutter Stripe in a tailored jacket with tiny covered buttons?
do you stash fabrics away to frock?

why don't you?

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following Fowler: Part III of Fowler- then and now

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one of my favourite wallpapers is the grand PEMBROKE DAMASK by Clarence House-

Here-at Nantclwyd Hall- John Fowler used Double Damask, (later known as Pembroke Damask.-but more about this later) The hall was given an oversized dentil when redesigned in the 1960's. Fowler balances the dentil with the Damask in a brown and white colourway-the Prince faced many of these balancing tricks throughout the decorating process at Nantclwyd. I love the mellow brown of the paper- picking up the oak colour in the doors. Everything works here, the beautifully framed portraits, the worn patina of the desk and the pair of chairs. This is just one of the spaces that Fowler comes across as a "Working Designer." He actually joined the project after Sir Clough Williams-Ellis, the architect, had added these oversized dentils, which by the way, I like, because the wallpaper is so perfect. Fowler found some of the juxtapositions Williams-Ellis added as obstacles to his work-another common problem designers face in decorating. The rooms Fowler completed are another example of his= Working It Out- beautifully resolving the issues. Though Fowler saw the rooms as moderately sized, he wisely decorated them as full blown Georgian rooms.


Keith Irvine-legend in his own right- studied with Fowler for several years and recounts his initial interview with Fowler. Having written the Prince a number of times- 'You are the only person in the world I want to work for.' Adding in his wonderful book Keith Irvine- A Life in Decoration- that "he has advised many people over the years to try the same ploy, since for me it worked." Fowler pointed out Irvine's lack of any design knowledge and passed on the young apprentice. Three weeks later the call came- Can you start on Monday? Anyone with an interest in John Fowler must read Irvine's book! His Introduction alone is priceless. I will save the details for your own perusal- but, he sums his work for Fowler up by saying it was "part paradise and part reign of terror!" It is obvious that he learned a lifetime of experiencefrom the Prince in the several years he worked with him. Imagine! Irving went on to a brief disappointing stint with Sister Parish in the States and opened his own firm.Irvine's English country house look in America has graced many homes: Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, Katharine Graham and Rex Harrison to name a few.

following in the Fowler tradition, designer Keith Irvine uses Clarence House's Pembroke Damask in this townhouse foyer. The John Fowler hand blocked paper- Double Damask- one in the same. Keith Irvine shares the Damask's Story:
 "Fowler had discovered old fragments of this paper at Wilton House in Wiltshire when he was working there for the Earl of Pembroke, and he prevailed on the wallpaper company Coles to cut new blocks for it. As far as I know, it is the most expensive wallpaper in the world-but probably not!" The version of Pembroke Damask Irvine uses is a sharp salmon colour with white pattern and he has paired it with a paneled dado to beautiful effect.




I have recently discovered that new blogger MAGPIE worked with Keith Irvine through a comment left on a previous little augury post on Fowler and Haslam-"I love both these designers. I long for a return of interesting window treatments. Let us hope they come back soon. I worked for Keith Irvine, who started his career with John Fowler. He also was a founder of Clarence House. I'm extremely proud to be a little bit in that bloodline. The great traditional designers are the most creative, imaginative and wild, really. Just wonderful." dandy


I hope in future-"dandy will regale us with some authentic Fowler- Irvine stories.Visit here.
and thank you Dandy-aka Magpie for inspiring this post.

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holding court at Cornbury Park: Fowler-then and now Part II


When John Fowler was called by the 2nd Lady Rotherwick and her Lord, the Prince of Decorators was winding down a brilliant career. The year was 1967, Fowler retired 4 years later- leaving-according to biographer Martin Wood- his best, most stellar, work. Wood says John Fowler was at his peak, the interiors 'are more flamboyant, perhaps a touch more theatrical and certainly more sumptuous.' Who am I to argue?


the Drawing Room
done in a scheme of blue, the walls are covered with a damask-a greyed blue (though appearing golden in the photograph below)-shown in the detailed photograph above. the curtains are dominating presence in the room are worthy of a Dior ball gown. one touch Fowler added to the room was a cream geometric carpet that is still a part of the room.
the Drawing Room still has all of Fowler's grandeur intact. Details I love are the small tables about the room, the large lamps, family photographs and the mirror placed in between the two windows, a tight fit -but perfectly placed.



John Fowler had decorated the previous home of the new Cornbury owners, Bletchington Park, and the Lady was quite happy there- but apparently the shooting at Cornbury Park was a draw for Lord Rotherwick. Along with architect Philip Jebb, Fowler set about making some drastic alterations to the downstairs main hall in order to add some upstairs bedrooms. The double height halls were done away with for this purpose,creating a more intimate Main Hall.


the Main Hall



the 3rd Lord Rotherwick with his son at Cornbury Park 
(image from Tatler, oct 2009)



The current residents are the 3rd Lord Rotherwick and his lively , lovely family. Lady Rotherwick, Tania, breathed life back into Fowler interiors- and having a family of teens and toddlers helps. She says 'It's so amazing you literally can't change anything. The most I've been able to do is put a bunch of flowers in a vase and decorate my own study.'  More about what the Lady really does at the end of this post. The Tatler is filled with photographs of the residents and the interiors that Fowler designed for the present owner's parents. Richard Dennen's article Cornbury Takes Off  is a fantastic peak into the 17 room mansion.

family photos in the Tatler







below-a page from the Tatler story, 
the Cornbury Master Bedroom (left)
the Bletchington Room (right) 
& the Buchan Room (lower left)


The rooms of Cornbury's debut in print was nearly forty years after Fowler completed the project. Published in the 2008 December World of Interiors magazine, Cornbury appears pristine. As if the designer had worked with the current Lady of the manor, the rooms have a luxurious elegance, a freshness, a traditional stately quality. Stephen Calloway saw the rooms in 2008-and with photographer Anthony Crolla-recorded these magnificent rooms for the magazine. I doubt these rooms could be created today by any designer working. (Oh but of course-Nicholas Haslam!) The attention to quality and the details Fowler laboured over do not exist in the pages of today's magazine rooms. As Stephen Calloway explains- unlike the designers of today, Fowler maintained complete discretion where his clients were concerned and respected the privacy they demanded. This discretion left Cornbury's rooms undocumented. Most designer's today insist on their rights to photograph their work.

Cornbury is full of Fowler surprises. The beds at Cornbury are truly ships of state, trimmed, decked, fringed and beautifully swathed. Stephen Calloway calls Fowler's treatment of the bedrooms to be his 'Mannerist sensibility in full play, creating startling effects through the use of combinations of colour and texture.' The colours are HOT ORANGE, LIME GREEN, VIOLET-GREY- and today we see them coming on strong or peaking in current interiors.

In the MASTER BEDROOM the walls are hung in an off white corduroy velvet. Again- Martin Wood, 'The bed, probably a made-up piece with Georgian posts and a very flamboyant Rococo cornice,was dressed with a Warner's fabric, which was also used for the window curtains.' Here, it is obvious Fowler did not mind putting together elements to get the desired effects. The bed is indeed Beautiful. There are also several intricately dressed dog kennels done up by Fowler for the bedrooms, one seen in the Master (below) and another in the Bletchington Room.

Details I love- more little tables, large beautiful lamps, functional floor lamps and the fitted bench at the window.

the Bletchington Bedroom ,circa Fowler
a Chinese red Pomegranate damask on the walls

the portrait to the left is of the 1st Lady Rotherwick-Fowler's client


the Bletchington Kennel by Fowler
mimic the designs from the room's bed



the current resident of the Bletchington Kennel



the Buchan Bedroom 
 Mauny papers and  a riotous pendant canopy



a stately bath off the Garthmore Bedroom (not pictured)
 Fowler used one of his favoured Mauny papers PRIMAVERES
& a Friar's chair in apricot, note the decorated door 



the Tynley Bedroom 
fully covered in matching paper and fabric



the Hyde Bedroom
masterly detailing with a Mauny border, deeply swagged bed curtains, 
and relatively simple curtains for Fowler.



The Bed and Curtain Details at Cornbury
Fowler's mastery in full flourish

(the Master bed above)


a Fowler sketch of the Stone Hall Curtains

 close up of the heavy wool curtains-flawlessly made


 the Stone Hall
John Fowler arranged this beautiful space as a hall-cum-sitting room. The Hall- with its strong compartmented ceiling- was named for the Nicholas Stone who designed the grand space in the 17th century. Fowler detail is never more apparent here-He had the stone chimney piece moved over a very few inches to achieve a perfect balance in the room. Fowler's curtains ride right up to the ceiling line and in between the sturdy corbels. The geometry of the tops of the curtains is Fowler at his best curtainwise.



more bedroom details



Last but not least- the incredibly beautiful curtains in the Drawing Room. It is always a wonder to see the real colours that are in a room. This photograph of the couture curtains John Fowler created for Cornbury shows the curtain colour to be a cerulean. In the left photograph below- the colour certainly appears very strong, in the right- much softer- tricks of a camera? Only the Lady of the house would know-not that it matters very much-the design is in the details. Martin Wood takes over-
The 'curtains demonstrated John's skill at achieving magnificent effects. Each window was dressed with three-swag drapery, decorated at each end with bows and choux between, and finished with balloon tails. The swags and tails were edged with a frill, lined with Dot and Cross chintz, and in turn edged with fan and double-fan edging.'
Calloway describes the dressmaker inspired confections as 'positively frivolous blue silk curtains, madly ruched and trimmed with lace.'


The photographs and preservation of Cornbury give us the ultimate Fowler. He was always most comfortable in private homes, creating real interiors for real people.
'I like the decoration of a room to be well behaved but free from too many rules, to have a sense of graciousness; to be mannered, yet casual and unselfconscious; to be stimulating, even provocative; and finally to be nameless of period-a fantasy expressing the personality of the owner.' -so said John Fowler as his career began in 1938. In his last work at Cornbury this ideal of Fowler's was forever  magnificently achieved.



Sources and More about Lady Rotherwick
Martin Wood's chapter on Fowler's last work is fittingly called FINAL FLOURISH. This is the definitive book on - THE PRINCE OF DECORATORS and Wood has written another beautifully put together book about Nancy Lancaster. All the descriptions are derived from Wood's research and the Colefax and Fowler: The best in English decoration, by Jones and Dickson, the sited World of Interiors Dec. 2008-Stephen Calloway written FOREVER FOWLER and the Tatler October 2009 article.


and Now Cornbury host's POSHSTOCK read about it HERE


 Cornbury HERE

read Part 1 here 
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carrying on - at the Hunting Lodge, Part I of Fowler- then and now

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 What is to become of the Fowler legacy? Much examination and re-examantion of the designer's work by his devotees and perhaps in the other camp of British historians goes on and will continue. For my part, the more I examine, the more I am convinced of the designer's extraordinary ability to reverence and reject what is best & least desirable about the past. Is there a current designer doing the circuit that is capable? Desirous? Not so many desirous- has John Fowler become-demode? Certainly none of the hot designers we see in the glossies published in the States are reverencing or referencing the Prince of Decorators. There are very few hand painted wall finishes, marbling of baseboards, picking out of moldings, dragging of walls.

Who?


The HUNTING LODGE
during John Fowler's day


John Fowler lived at his beloved Hunting Lodge from 1947 until his death in 1977. The house is now home to bon vivant voyeuristic interior designer- Nicholas Haslam. The Lodge is a 1730s architectural gem in Hampshire Haslam has leased from the National Trust. That John Fowler requested his ashes scattered under a Magnolia stellata in the flower beds near the house- should not go unnoticed and further ties the two decorators if not aesthetically- certainly metaphysically.

How did Haslam find the house? “I knew that Fowler had died and that someone — I’d better not say who — had moved their mistress into it, but he was got out for transgressing the National Trust code.” So he drove down one afternoon and had a poke around the outside, deciding to take it without even looking inside. He has never regretted it.
“The house is so welcoming,” he swoons. “It just loves people. Cecil Beaton and that world have been, and I’ve had some parties. The big hunting party for my 40th birthday was quite fun. It had rained for a week, but June 16 dawned and it was boiling. I had Cole Porter being played, jazz music, dancing, a tent, silver and mauve fireworks.


current resident Nicky Haslam

As readers know, I will absolutely invite darling Nicky to decorate for me when my Normandie docks. I think Haslam has the heart and the smarts to keep John Fowler's work alive. Indeed-as evidenced in his many references, homages in his own work to Fowler -Haslam is ready for the mantle and wants it.

Some say though witty, sparkling -Haslam just doesn't have the seriousness that Fowler tasked into much of his design work. Granted Haslam will never bear the scrutiny of the National Trust- and it would seem that Fowler's work today stands on shaky ground with that august body. They would perhaps declare the Prince a bit passe- too much decorating and not enough investigating-or something like that. The processes historians use today to glean their results on colour and decoration of the past is so highly developed beyond that of the scraping Fowler did- is irrefutable. My question is, Would the Prince have adhered to the findings? That is to be explored another day-perhaps even for more scholarly minds to tackle. I for one- am strongly drawn to what is beautiful, timeless, what is classical- than to what is historically accurate.

This posting represents the first of ongoing devoted to these two princely gentlemen- John Fowler and Nicholas Haslam. In the March  issue-World of Interiors- its "antennae" finds Nicholas Haslam introducing a Venetian-blind pattern to his fabric collection called Random Harvest. The good looking "Shutter Stripe" made of linen is available in ten colourways. It is no surprise to find the Venetian blind pattern was one of John Fowler's favourites. I think at one time Clarence House or Brunschwig had this fabric in their line-they still may. The Shutter Stripe is nothing but one of the most clever fabrics I have ever seen.


Clever I say- Can you argue?
SEE no. 3 below- with Shutter Stripe pictured



Witness this fabric phenomenon as used by John Fowler- his known as the Venetian Blind Chintz-

Venetian Blind Chintz 
paired with a simple block printed woven
at Yarty, a country farmhouse retreat



 A Guest Room at Yarty with Venetian Blind Chintz
at the window with swagging and ruffled edging




The Sitting Room-prior to 1939-Venetian Blind Chintz at the window
John Fowler's King's Road shop



Formally swagged windows with Venetian Blind Chintz
at a flat decorated by John Fowler



 A Rustic Room at King's Road top floor room-late 1930's
Venetian Blind Chintz at the windows
watercolour by Bianca Minns



 King's Road 1936 set up for a party
Venetian Blind Chintz (again)


It appears that Haslam quite loves Mr. Fowler, and  I say bravo! Such a witty fabric like the Venetian Blind seems to tie together everything Haslam and Fowler preached about- reverence of the past, a bit of fantasy and fearlessness.


Haslam at his charming best- My perfect weekend here (Telegraph uk)
Haslam in W here
Haslam ND Design here
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homage to Hazelton House

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when I think about the ultimate in glorious hand blocked textiles-I think HAZELTON HOUSE.



Fabrics designs dating from the 1830's to the 1920's-the library of Hazelton House is second to none in HAND BLOCKED  patterns. A documented colourway and several other colour ranges are a part of the Hazelton House tradition. Mostly, I prefer the hand blocked prints on cotton, but they are available in linen as well. The use of original wood blocks is a labour intensive process, one that only experienced craftsmen can render.

Each “fall on” (the application of one color at a time in overlapping layers) adds a soft nuance and color gradation to the whole, producing a three-dimensional result that cannot be achieved with any other type of printing.


One of the finest Hand Block designs in the collection,Homage to Rose Cumming, a Dutch bouquet design with a 50 inch repeat, is printed using a set of 168 blocks and 21 dye colors. Depending on the skill of the printer, it is produced at a rate of about 15 meters per week.
The original pattern of Dutch bouquet of roses, peonies, tulips, fuchsia, along with other flowers and foliage is named for the doyenne of decorating-Rose Cumming. Rose began importing chintz and silks from Paris & London in 1917 and selling them in her legendary New York shop. Hazelton House does the pattern in a screen print as well and calls it Anne Dorothea & Anne- Cienne.




a favourite of mine-in BLUE-is Tribute to John Fowler. The 72 blocks required to print Tribute were engraved in 1926. John Fowler- whose enduring influence over design is undisputed- was known for his boldly scaled fabrics and papers that revived the English interior.




Chinese Vase- another hand block-using 76 blocks features a hidden Chinese vase overflowing with English  garden flowers in bold saturated colour. The original document is from 1860.


Rose Carol an 1860 interpretation of Louis XV flower gardens- that were once described as Gardens in which  Art improves upon Nature. Rose Carol, a hand block, is a stylized architectural trellis- with flowers and a pair of songbirds.


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Hazelton House boasts 17 hand blocked fabrics and 17 screen prints-Go see the other patterns here.
I hope you love them-as much as I do.
HAZELTON HOUSE is available to the trade only-
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read more about HAND BLOCKING here
all fabric images are courtesy of HAZELTON HOUSE-Please inquire before using these images.
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