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Showing posts with label having a dress up moment. Show all posts
Showing posts with label having a dress up moment. Show all posts

lavender. grey & cometes : Karl's Chanel

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Kristen McMenamy looking like a Bourbon from a Nattier portrait


Sophie de France

Madame Victoire of France 
painted by Adélaïde Labille-Guiard



Why there will always be Chanel-at this point, one must admit it is the vision of Karl Lagerfeld. He is a magician pulling beautiful rabbits out of  a Chanel boater. His Resort collection was staged at the Hôtel du Cap-Eden Roc in Antibes on the French Riviera  this week.
 













I love the stars -part of  Chanel haute joallerie pieces- diamonds brooches pinned on vests, & featured as motifs in fabrics-






"Do not you believe, madam, said I, 
that the clearness of this Night exceeds the Glory of the brightest day?
I confess, said she, the Day must yield to such a Night. "

Bernard le Bovier de Fontenelle, from Conversations on the Plurality of Worlds







 "I wanted to cover women with constellations! 
With stars! 
Stars of all sizes!"
CHANEL





"I confess, said she, the Day must yield to such a Night.
 I love the Stars, and could be heartily angry with the Sun for taking them from my sight."

Bernard le Bovier de Fontenelle, from Conversations on the Plurality of Worlds


 













Chanel Fine Jewelry here
Chanel.com here
Vogue.com here
Comet images here



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McQueen's moves at the Met

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 McQueen at the board


"It's Only A Game"
Spring Summer Collection from 2005




the Queen's Panniers in Motion


Featured at the Exhibit, a McQueen dress and obi-style sash of lilac and silver brocade; jacket of lilac silk faille embroidered with silk thread; top of nude synthetic net embroidered with silk thread.(Met description)




McQueen's QUEEN on the board






 

 Photography by Sølve Sundsbø, the Met here





Panniers ca 1750
made of British tan linen and baleen
from the Met's Costume Institute





The  Pannier (French~wicker basket) supported the fashionable voluminous skirts of the early 18th century.  Originally launched in Spain & then on  to England & France , the undergarment was quickly embraced by all of fashionable Europe. The Pannier extended the width of the gown leaving the front and back flat. This arrangement allowed for a perfect canvas, showing off intricate brocades & embroidered silks. The original structure of the pannier was formed of stiffened petticoats &  rows of whalebone running around the skirting. The style escalated to its breadth by 1728 and sailed through most of the 18th century.





 the Met's robe a la francaise

In its most formal configuration, the robe à la française presented a particularly wide and flattened profile accomplished by enlarged panniers. Constructed of supple bent wands of willow or whalebone and covered in linen, panniers took on broader or narrower silhouettes. The most remarkable held out the skirts like sandwich boards, barely wider than the body in side view, but as expansive as possible in front or rear view.








the Met's Queen Diana Vreeland
As special consultant to the Costume Institute, from 1976 to 1989, Mrs. Vreeland  prepares a silk and silver wedding dress worn by Catherine the Great. The 1976 Exhibition -"The Glory of Russian Costume"-was one of  the shows Vreeland mounted  while  working with the Met. Her curatorial skills set the bar high for her successors. Curator Andrew Bolton and Curator in Charge continue the tradition of show stopping exhibits for the Institute- with the "Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty" being its latest.



photo from LIFE,  December 2, 1976.






the other McQueen from  It's Only A Game
Spring Summer 2005







the Pieces at Play
past & present









Vreeland's Empress Catherine II, at  left, panniers below
Empress Catherine II before the mirror
 by Vigilius Erichsen, 1779

Queen Marie Antoinette, at right, panniers below
by Mme. Vigee  Lebrun






The King at play- Louis xvi,  
(paniers playing at far right)






& the Grandmaster





Alexander McQueen saw things no one else saw-or could make out.
Of this Collection he said: " the idea of the chess game meant that we looked at six different types of women, women on opposing sides. We had the Americans facing the Japanese and the redheads facing the tanned Latinos.” Another Magazine, Spring/Summer 2005


&  the result?
 a master's Gambit.






all McQueen images from the Met Costume Institute, style.com


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smart Met Dressed

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the Met's best dressed stepped out Monday night to honor Alexander McQueen at the Costume Institute Exhibition Savage Beauty. The curator of the Costume Institute presents McQueen's design genius in a fusion of  avant-garde  art installation and performance art. There is a dedicated website to the almost three month exhibit that started May4 and will continue til the 31st of July. I can not wait to see it in June.

From the gala Monday night there were fashion showstoppers, but I looked for fashion smarts-I am onto that at the moment and this what I spied.







Franca Sozzani wearing Valentino, at r., Giovanna Battaglia wearing Marni



Marina Rust



Eleanor de Soles in Tom Ford & r., Joan Smalis in Tom Ford



Doutzen Kroes wearing Giambattista Valli


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Colette Check

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when checking in with Colette on checks-She said she had checked out the checks at Christopher Kane last Spring & was wowed, but passed on them.
His collection of checks is what mad geniuses like Kane do with checks.  The Spring 2010 collection was inspired by the cult of Jonestown,  a 1980's image of Nancy Reagan strolling the grounds of the White House  & Jeremy Irons' tailored vest in the film Lolita.
GOT IT? Oh Yes, and gospel & spiritual music.
That clears things up quite a bit-Yes?







Irregardless- the intricacy of pattern play, tailoring, the mix of beading  & Oh yes! Checks-makes it worth checking into.









As always Colette has an eye for showing Us whats' what & putting her finger on that certain something that sticks with Us.

In the Checkered Past story I suggested she do up something in checks for her next evening at Nicky Haslam's Hunting Lodge-  offering up several looks from past designers to inspire her.  She writes "I constantly battle my penchant for checks (and stripes for that matter)...i cant seem to stop! Christopher Kane's gingham dresses last year were a painful temptation that i resisted thinking them too 'on trend'...and now of course, regret. Lesson learnt and i will send pics of the ensemble i now feel i simply MUST whip up."

Checkmate!, Can't Wait.
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my checkered past


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The first check of memory-at age 4 years- was a little tiny voile gingham made for me by my great MaMa. She was a wonderful seamstress and of course I loved a check even then.
Certainly not my first, In Fact- I never met a check I did not like...
Another check -a small yellow one sewn for a colonial dance in the first grade also comes to mind-as does the dance partner-still not happy at that pairing.






My mother wore them.
We picnicked on them.
There were aprons, tablecloths, napkins-




dress by Adrian



I've heard it said that a house will speak to you-If  you listen. Has yours talked to you lately? The house I left 5 years ago spoke in dulcet elegant tones. It wanted to speak French-but I insisted not. It knew I was right- that said- it was very Continental. A formal room of Manuel Canovas linen floral curtains on the wall, silk damasks-you get the picture.
The house I live in now spoke immediately-Besides saying Help! -it said-in a calm voice-You love checks!
Why not?
I don't count them for this story, that would mean I was on shaky ground in using more than One.
Two.
Three?







Red Checks  Blue Checks, Tan Checks-throughout the house.  Checks find their way into my design projects too. They live comfortably in any room and I especially love them looking smart & yes-even a little chic in my own bath (above) where the walls are a sort of  spiritual misty lavender and two shower curtains are made up in a large red voile check- paired with a Chanel poster. Neither has complained about the placement.

Clients rarely reject a check-unless they have a lingering hangup about kitchen towels or tab curtains from there own past. When thinking about checks - think Versatility.

My list of rooms that wear them well:
the kitchen of course- though this one is maybe too obvious-like shells at the beach cottage.
I love checks in a Nursery- large Blue checks from Greeff- with scallopy valances and canopies,
a Master Suite- large Blue Schumacher checks for the curtains, bed coverings, a headboard in a room with yellow walls,
the Guest Room- Black check curtains paired with a small red windowpane quilted checks & Black check twin headboards, finishing with a black and white Brunschwig toile paper on the walls.








A CHECKERED PAST
GREAT ROOMS- Memorable Checks






Charles de Beistegui at Groussay



Interestingly -in the 18th century, slipcovers were necessity, keeping the many fine furnishings from the inevitable weather -dust and dirt that permeated  the most  sound  houses. The Duchess of Norfolk had check covers for all of the furnishing in London's Norfolk House. She was quite firm that  the  color scheme of each room be echoed in the check.  From the inventory the Duchess noted for the ground floor Great Drawing Room the case covers were in 'blew and white check' to match the 'blew Imbost Paper.'





a 1947 Check Evening dress and stole-timeless & as beautiful today as it was 64 years ago.





Carolina Herrera Fall 2011

The ever elegant Carolina Herrera (above) a does not hesitate to use a silk check for the tailored ball gown- How much do you love this dress?



When made of silk or silk tafetta, Checks are elegant, romantic- equally unexpected- large bold checks in the Living Room & tiny ones on dog collars. Large or small -in silk- a check abandons its ordered regimented nature and swishes from skirt to curtain to pillow.






Gorgeous silk checks from Kravet, Stroheim & Romann, Cowtan & Tout and  Robert Allen.









A silk check from Carelton V (above) in my bedroom has something of the little details I love.  I used this check with a finely stitched diagonal playing over the pattern on a French chair.
Some find checks an easy fix- I could not agree more! Often easy is best.
In culling tear sheets and scrap books-I found little french chairs dotting the pages : in the late Nan Kempner's closet- a check covered French chair & check boxes peak out of the curtained closet.







in Carolyne Roehm's makeshift office in Weatherstone's carriage house-serving after a fire swept through the main house in 1999. (below)







Checks can also double as trimmings & bands to add detail to chairs & curtains.




- details count
checks used as trimmings









A 1957 day dress photographed by John French with the check pattern running on the diagonal to create a completely unique look. As with any sort of sewing- simple or complex-the matching of seams must be perfect.


NOTABLE CHECKERED PASTS
 GREAT ROOMS -Memorable Checks
 
Valentino's Living Room
check Curtains & dining chairs beyond



When ask  about his love for checks and plaids?  Valentino says- "Why not? Squares are such perfect shapes." According to IN Style 2006 - all of  Valentino's homes are stocked with checks and plaid towels, sheets, pillows, linens-as well as curtains and sofas. (above) Valentino's Appia Antica Villa- in Rome.




Adolpho's take on the romantic check- inspired by the 1967 Swedish film Elvira Madigan
(Vogue 1968)




Nicky Haslam
something about Chairs

Nicky Haslam used a check in his own dining room at the Hunting Lodge-once owned by John Fowler. An elegant room with formal notes- more gavotte than minuet.


Nicky Haslam's Hunting Lodge Dining Room




(above pages from Nicky Haslam's website here) , I love Haslam's use of a large check on the backs of leather chairs in the Kitchen of this project (at left). The checks used over 40 years ago for evening skirts would be perfect for dining with Nicky at the Hunting Lodge. I bet Colette, Nicky's colleague , has one ready and waiting just in case-I can not imagine she doesn't. She has a decided penchant for finding the perfect fabric from their library an having something made up to show stopping effect.



an evening skirt made from yards & yards of blue and white gingham check  taffeta
(from Vogue 1968)




A curtained day bed canopy  in my upstairs hall with a simple coarse tan check of cotton trimmed in a wooden tassel trim












GREAT ROOMS- Memorable Checks






Perhaps one of the most famous room-at least the room of checks I fell in love with at age 11. In the early 1970's Gloria swathed the family's Living Room at their Southampton home- Summertime in beautiful check gingham.






Jack Robinson photographed the rooms and family for House & Garden in June 1972.







Checks are forgiving in a sense that relatively inexpensive ones can made top notch rooms-however impeccable workmanship is imperative-Seamstresses that match checks, upholsterers that do the same.
The pink checks shown here are from Pindler & Pindler and along with these two large patterns matching smaller  checks are available.


I used a tiny Cowtan & Tout windowpane on the cupboard to keep it covered and pretty- The Cowtan and Tout checks probable have the best of all the Checkered pasts- The color range is beautiful-still one of the best to the trade and the grounds are equal to the color.

How many times has Eaton Check (pictured below) come to the rescue? Each time I use it is looks new, fresh-crisp. What a check should be?
Really-I never met a check I didn't like.







it's a toss up!




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