to Sir : a Vanity fair

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a Vanity fair,  to this Vanity, Sir.

" Frailty , thy name is Vanity." *

~but I like a little a tiered dressing table, embroidery & silk skirted vanity stool, grandly scaled floral walls, silk curtains- all in misty shades of gray. No?  Sir.

a Vanity Sir

the Sir assigns this dressing table to a Beau Brummel type.

I love this, Sir, & I told you so.




but Sir, 

I do not love this 
a low Brummel, indeed.

(both images from the same, Sir.)

apologies to Shakespeare who did not say -Vanity thy Name is Woman, but "Frailty, Thy name is woman." (oh, that's much worse) -from Hamlet ,said by Hamlet to his mother's hasty marriage to Uncle Claudius after his father- the King's death.

apologies to my Vanity Fair-where the image is from eludes me- I think it is Vogue.

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A LUMP OF COAL to Desiree Rogers

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Desiree Rogers desk as photographed in the November VANITY FAIR. Wonder where that State Dinner Guest list might be?

Mostly here- names dropped all over the place.

Hermes, Letitia Baldridge's note wishing her well, Frango chocolates, Jon Bon Jovi's cd gift, George Stevens producer's gift of fine point ink pens- Oh- & guidebooks for planning a state dinner for Indian prime minister-
now, Where is that list?
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Fashion and Glamour: For the Fashionistas...A Great Gift Idea, Valentino The Last Emperor

This fim by Matt Tyrnauer is one of the most unique opportunities to see inside the world of a great fashion designer. Matt is an editor at large for Vanity Fair Magazine covering Architecture and Design and overseeing the magazines annual new establishment list. Matt and I corresponded via email last spring after the publication of the March 2009 Issue of  Vanity Fair (Obama on the cover)  and just a few weeks before the release of his Film, Matt had written an article entitled "Glamour Begins at Home"

In the 40s, 50s, and 60s, architect John Elgin Woolf and his partner, lover, and, later, adopted son, designer Robert Koch Woolf, gave the Beverly Hills elite a new kind of home, as glamorous as any movie set. The author traces the star-studded rise of Woolf’s “Hollywood Regency” style, and the unorthodox family he created. (excerpt from article).

As it turned out Gregg and I had just completed one of our projects in Montecito, a huge renovation / restoration of a John Woolf Home. I emailed the photos to Matt and he immediately responded very enthusiastically that he had become a lover of the Hollywood Regency Style and John Woolf's designs. He said that he had wished he had known about our project prior to the completion of his article. Me too! I wished him luck with the film and we briefly discussed my experience with Mr. Valentino while working in Peter Marino's office in New York in the late 1980's and about Gregg's and my encounter with Valentino while dining in London at the Ivy , he was dining with Joan Collins. At any rate, check out Matt's film it would make a great holiday gift for any fashionista. 

Valentino The Last Emperor.

Keep Calm & Carry On

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the inspiring calm of a David Hicks room

Some people- some rooms- Exude a spirit of CALM. Nobody does it better than the Brits. Whether it be their glossies, their artful dodger or tweedy fashion sense or their approach to comfortable, yet luxurious living- the Empire can turn out- COOL, CALM, LOW KEY STYLE with aplomb.

This now "everywhere" image has its roots in the Second World War-Britain. When in spring of 1939 war with Germany was all but declared- the British Government planned its strategy to maintain morale, inspire courage and provide reassurance to its people.

fashion Empire style

The KEEP CALM story begins with three posters created under the crown of King George V during WWII.The first two were widely released, appearing on billboards, train stations and shops in England.Production commenced in August 1939, with a print budget of £20,600 for five million posters. The first poster phrased by a civil servant named Waterfield- was simply the following-the crown of George VI, the bold red and white poster & the words‘Your Courage, Your Cheerfulness, Your Resolution will Bring us Victory’. The second poster read ‘Freedom is in Peril’.

an original

the cool Vivien Leigh,1936

photograph by Madame Yevonde

The third design, read ‘Keep Calm and Carry On'- reserved for the ultimate crisis feared- Invasion. The poster remained uncirculated-

image from here 

The poster  resurfaced after about 60 years later in a box of books purchased at auction in 2000 by Stuart and Mary Manley of Barter Books in Northumberland.

The KEEP CALM poster was hung in the shop and the pair started to research their find. Requests to purchase led to the reproduction of the poster and the rest in HISTORY- as they say.

 A message that continues to resonate. Perhaps-we take ourselves a little to seriously, when reflecting on the original creation of the mantra. The clean crisp look of the words with the iconic image of the crown designwise could not be more current. In a time when making the message clear was ALL- it is a refreshing, nostalgic- but ultimately a powerful presentation our world today.

Think about this simple,powerful design when the blowouts and blow-ups of the Holiday Season blow in. Repeat-
Keep Calm & Carry ON. & Again- if necessary.

 cuff links with a white shirt

a rubber stamp would be great

oh wait-
they have that too, 
available here.

Perhaps an addition to my design proposals.

David Hicks lit a polonaise 

CARRYing ON

& in today's modern world-the ultimate Cool approach by Brit0Anya Hindmarch, handbag design darling, posing in her Living Room,as seen in VANITY FAIR 2009 here

 inspired-

image from here

all fashion images from Style.com here, Vivenne Westwood Red Label, Graeme Black, Aquascutum, Ossie Clark.

all things are available at the KEEP CALM AND CARRY ON website here 
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Gertrude Reprise

Gertrude Lawrence
Private Lives
Molyneux

"Her manner and charm were such that
by the time anyone found out she was not a Beauty,
it was too late, they were bewitched."
-Madge Garland


Gertrude Lawrence originated the role of Amanda Prynne
opposite Noël Coward in'Private Lives' both in London and New York.

molyneux label

GL in White Satin Molyneux from Vanity Fair Conde Nast (here)

photograph by George Hoyningen-Huené

GL & NC

from Private Lives

Wardrobe by Molyneux

read more at the Fashion Spot Forum(here)

scene from Private Lives
photograph from AAL here

Molyneux in Vogue

Private Lives

Lee Creelman pen and ink illustration from the February 1, 1932, Vogue

Daywear looks of long jackets and midi skirts Edward Molyneux.

from Conde Nast




Model Smokers

The bare backless dress by Molyneux and V neck dress (figure seated)

Lee Creelman pen and ink illustration from the June 15, 1933,Vogue.

from Conde Nast

Read more about Molyneux from An Aesthete's Lament

Lady Gertrude Do! Do! Do!

Famed femme fatale, star of the London stage and musical theatre, lifetime friend of Noel Coward-

(applause, applause)

Gertrude Lawrence!

Her drawing room at Portland Place was decorated by Ronald Fleming. This-in the day of Syrie Maugham's all white drawing room- Lawrence opted for panache.

The stage set chic room sparkled with a mirrored wall along the bookcase and mantle. Comfortable upholstered club chairs covered in satin with small bullion fringes along the hems, a low slung rather glamorous sofa in a decidedly reptilian pattern, and a fireside bench with deep contrasting bullion fringe-Enter Noel Coward. Curtain up. A Stylish little Vogue Regency drum table probably held lighters, drinks as the white likely lacquered grand piano swayed while played by Noel Coward and Gertie sang.

I wonder what color that Satin was? Champagne- my guess.



A gorgeous photograph of the Lady GERTRUDE, Satin? Magnolia-my guess




Definitely a Satin Bed-Nude- my guess.



Cecil Beaton photographed the actress in bed swathed in chiffon, fur and satin in Vanity Fair 1934's-Celebrities in Bed. Yes dog lovers that is a dawlin' Yorkie in bed with Gertie.


What color is your Satin? silk satin rather? I know it might not be the thing these days, But baby it undeniably was back then.



Lawrence's drawing room foto from Style Traditions, by Stephen Calloway & Stephen Jones