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Showing posts with label Elsa Schiaparelli. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Elsa Schiaparelli. Show all posts

dress tartan 1948

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Carl Erickson
SCHIAPARELLI 1948
Vogue Conde Nast Archives







& there is nothing like tartan for the holidays, I can just see Carolina Herrera in this, She has great style-a long skirt and tailored shirt can not be beat in the evening.


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All Hallows

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Beauty is always the result of an accident. 
Of a violent lapse between acquired habits and those yet to be acquired.




 & your personal patron Saint-why not?

Mine?


COCTEAU
Saint Jean

The trouble about the Académie is that by the time 
they get around to electing us to a seat, 
we really need a bed. On his election to Académie Française






We shelter an angel within us. 
We must be the guardians of that angel.






Mystery has its own mysteries, and there are gods above gods. 
We have ours, they have theirs. That is what’s known as infinity.





 Disavow anyone who provokes 
or accepts the extermination of a race to which he does not belong.





A true poet does not bother to be poetical. 
Nor does a nursery gardener scent his roses.




I have lost my seven best friends, 
which is to say God has had mercy on me seven times without realizing it. 
He lent a friendship, 
took it from me, 
sent me another.

 



Wealth is an inborn attitude of mind, like poverty. 
The pauper who has made his pile may flaunt his spoils, 
but cannot wear them plausibly.




The poet never asks for admiration; he wants to be believed.






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Lacroix & A Duchess



Garouste and Bonetti decor
for Christian Lacroix, 1987







 In 2008 Christian Lacroix celebrated 20 glorious years of LACROIX Haute Couture with a retrospective at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs (article here)  Just 2 years ago- 20 years of the genius of Lacroix-celebrated. This month Sotheby's Paris is auctioning some of the most stylish objects that decorated the lavish 1980's designed Lacroix Salon. The house suffered major losses in 2009 and Lacroix sent his last Haute Couture collection down the runway. His eponymous salon decorated by the French designers Garouste and Bonetti, Lacroix Maison de Haute Couture was Glamorous. Baroque. Reflecting the fantasy of the designer Lacroix, their interiors were a perfect setting for his joyous concoctions, his brilliant mix of high and low.



LACROIX
Maison de Haute Couture



from the Sotheby's catalogue:

"In 1987 the French fashion designer Christian Lacroix had the opportunity to open his own Maison de Haute Couture. He immediately turned to the French designers Elizabeth Garouste and Mattia Bonetti to decorate the interior of the eighteenth century pavilion he had found, located on the famous Parisian Faubourg Saint Honoré.The team imagined an interior that fit perfectly with the universe of Lacroix, with references to the South: Spain, bullfighting, bright colours illuminated by the sun, the use of wrought iron, terracotta, wood, etc. This theatrical and avant-garde universe and atmosphere was in total opposition to the post modernist geometric black and white tendency of the decoration of the 80's."



Since its first publication many years ago-the Paris apartment of Christian Lacroix remained one of the most creative, bohemian, youthful and eclectic of the Paris fashion elite. The chic Lacroix Marais apartment was listed for sale early in 2009 and was sold in December of 2009.

 Christian Lacroix's apartment as it was prior to its sale,
Every bit as sophisticated, beautiful and unique as the designer's fashions.




Located in a 17th century building near the Place de Vosges, Lacroix's apartment consisted of two floors–and mezzanine library, four bedrooms on the lower floor with public rooms on the upper floor. The apartment was surprisingly restrained, with 13 foot ceilings, parquet de Versailles floors, and elaborate moldings of gilt. Lacroix moved from the space as the apartment was listed for 2.6 million into another apartment in the same neighborhood.

















Just before her wedding to the once King, Prince, etc., Mrs. Simpson was photographed by Cecil Beaton. wearing the baroque scrolls of a silk jersey jacket embroidered in a gold gilt by Elsa Schiaparelli. The two pieces of carbon blue jersey dress and jacket are strikingly beautiful. Compositionally, Beaton posed the soon to be Duchess by a Louis XV commode-its elaborate chasing echoes the Schiap jacket details. Beaton chronicled the nuptials at the Chateau de Conde in the Loire.

Though the Duchess' severity of dress strengthened as her jewelry became more stunning, the Beaton photograph is evidence that Wallis Simpson had a taste for the baroque. At one point in her wardrobe choices-Christian Lacroix would have been highly suitable, perhaps right until she stopped appearing in public prior to 1980.
Hard to imagine?
I don't think so.



LACROIX Duchess Couture

























The Duchess of Windsor died just short of her 100th birthday. Of the many images fashion pages etched in my mind- Wallis occupies at least 100. She wore clothes well - Not just the severe,
but the Chic,
the Schiap,
if only she had worn LACROIX.




Lacroix's last show at Les Arts Décoratifs showed the designer's Autumn Haute Couture 2009 Collection. Created with limited funds and unlimited imagination, the abbreviated collection was made possible by followers loyal to the designer. The time and skills of the seamstresses, embroiderers, jewelers, milliners, and shoemakers were donated. Sarah Mower wrote for Vogue's style.com: "Yet no financial constraints can detract from Lacroix's mastery of his art: Witness the simplicity of a floor-length navy one-shouldered dress swooping into an asymmetrically curved back with a satin bow nestled into one side. Then there was the extraordinary wedding dress, an eau de nil satin gown with a gilded headdress, a vision evoking an image of a saint in a devotional church painting. As the designer came out to lead the bride in the finale, the whole audience stood to honor him."


No efforts to revive LACROIX succeeded, and the House of Lacroix collapsed as 2009 closed. (read more here)


 Getty image



"I didn't want to cry, I want to continue,
maybe in a different way, with a small atelier. 
What I really care about is the women who do this work."
(-Lacroix-about his work and future, 2009)



all the Christian Lacroix Haute Couture images from style.com
more about the Lacroix apartment here
more about the collapse of Lacroix hereabout Wallis here
the Duke and Duchess of Windsor Society here
read about Madonna's movie W.E. here
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Surprisingly Spry

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Constance Spry at work
(image from here)

“Dress by Schiaperelli,
photographs by Cecil Beaton,
flowers by Constance Spry –
The decorator of the moment,
the photographer of the moment,
the florist of the moment –
what more could you ask?” Vogue 1937 (of the Duke and Duchess of Windsor's wedding)





Everything you wanted to know about Constance Spry but were afraid to ask (here): A delightful looking read ,256 pages, of Constance by Sue Shephard to be specific:


'Any new book from Sue Shephard, whose meticulous research & quirky writing style enlivens any subject, is a happy event, but this fascinating account of the life of a woman who changed so much for my generation is to be eagerly awaited & devoured.' --Clarissa Dickson-Wright

 It is interesting to note that in 2004 an exhibition of Spry's work at the Design Museum caused Terence Conran to describe Spry's work at 'high-society mimsiness':James Dyson said 'shallow style.''  There were many defenders of the Spry lady- but bested by the poet James Fenton saying 'When you visit one of Conran's shops and find some amusing table decoration-a nice little aquarium full of broad beans or whatever some zany fetching assistant has thought up that day-all that derives from Constance Spry. The starting point of her philosophy was that wild flowers and weeds could be pressed into service, just as much as tuberoses. One could indeed spend a fortune. One could also spend next to nothing. This was the source of her popular appeal. It's fun. It's dashing, perhaps unacceptable. It's part of the uncensored history of design.' (from the Guardian)*
Pity these two could not see it, not to mention surprising.

Flowers of Fennel and Orange Lilies, 
1951


Decorative Kale Leaves,
1937



 Soft Pink Colourings,
1951


The book is not available in the states yet, must go to amazon uk to get Spry. go now to pre order.
the Aesthete Cooks with Constance Spry TODAY! here
go to getty images here to see Spry in action with fashions by Victor Stiebel from 1934.

* British Vogue April 2010
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