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Showing posts with label India. Show all posts
Showing posts with label India. Show all posts
India Chic
When my grandmother moved to India over 60 years ago she was fresh out of college
and newly married to my grandfather, a United Nations diplomat. They settled in
Delhi just as the subcontinent began the transition from being ruled by white
sahibs and maharajas to becoming the biggest
democracy in our world today. While my grandfather filled his days with UN
business, my grandmother submerged herself in urban India’s art and culture
scene. She aided struggling artists get visas abroad, where they were soon
catapulted into fame. Modernist painter M.F. Hussain and Ravi Shankar were
amongst her friends. My grandmother helped these artists leave India to achieve
their dreams because in India it was en vogue to emulate Anglo culture.
So-called positivism art and distinctly Indian music was not chic to the few
wealthy Indians who could afford to support the artists. It must be noted however that M.F. Hussain one of India's best known artists is also highly controversial artist. Hussain has been accused of obscenity in several cases filed against him in a number of Indian states. He is alleged to have offended Hindus with a painting in which he represented India as nude goddess.
Nude 'Bharatmata' Painting by MF Hussain
am happy to say that "not chic" is is the case no longer. I recently returned from three
months in India, a trip that I had been dreaming of since childhood when I sat
enraptured by grandmother’s tales of exotic adventures across the Subcontinent.
Having read numerous books about the growing “consumer class” in India and the
globalization—or Americanization—occuring around the globe, I worried that I
might find Mumbai (formerly Bombay) and other cosmopolitan hubs filled with
women in jeans and Wal-Marts. Wealthy Indians are indeed growing in number and
in wealth, but I discovered that this does not necessarily coincide with the
forsaking of Indian culture and style.
In fact, it has lent itself to a fantastic convergence of Western trends
that you might spot at New York’s fashion week and Indian traditions. Luxury malls not only contain Louis Vuitton and Prada, but also local designers. Wandering around Colaba, in South Mumbai you can stumble upon a number of designer shops. They contain western-styled fashions made from beautiful Indian cut-silks, elaborate wedding sarees, printed cotton kaftans for the beach and beaded gold sandals. What’s great is that these aren’t just exotic finds for wealthy tourists to wear in Goa, but are pieces that you see Indian women wearing out on the street (though she may have a Prada handbag to accessorize…).
For
one, you can see this in the case of music. Mumbai has a number of hip, high-end music venues and clubs where you
can find a renowned tabla player just as often as an international jazz
quartet. Musicians no longer must seek financial stability abroad, but can find
a base of support from Indian youth and adults alike. South Indian film
composer AR Rahman has been a national celebrity in India for decades and only
recently came to international attention, winning a Golden Globe and Academy
Award last year for Slumdog Millionaire. He is known for combining rock, pop,
Carnatic, Hindustani and Western classical styles to create a uniquely
modern—yet Indian—sound.
Indians
have always been adept at creating great hotels (the Taj Mahal in Bombay was
established in 1903 after its creator was refused entry into the “whites only”
British-run luxury hotel), but this year the ITC group has taken it to a new
level. The ITC’s Royal
Gardenia Hotel in Bangalore has opened India’s first LEED-certified
eco-hotel and is based on the concept of merging luxury and
environmental-friendliness, proving that you don’t have to forgo one for the
other. Décor is inspired by local Mysore design, and Indian reviews raved that
the bathrooms even include Indian-style toilets (a surprising rarity in the
country), also proving that you mustn’t trade Indian traditions for
Western-style luxury... as exemplified by the unique vertical gardens in the Royal Gardenia's lobby.
Finally,
and what was most exciting to me, was the fashion in India’s urban centres.
While I was expecting to find the great fabrics of Rajasthan and chunky Tibetan
silver in the North, I hadn’t anticipated the fantastic, rather high-end
shopping in Mumbai, Delhi and Calcutta.
My favorite store was Bombay Electric, where they source
hand-woven cashmere sweaters, vintage photos of maharajas, and sequined
mini-dresses made from Indian cut-silk (as shown above).
Guest Post Author For Globally Gorgeous:
Sarah Malachowsky
The Gift of Ganesh
I received this very lovely, but confounding brass ganesh thing from my aunt who recently returned from India. I say “thing” because I don’t know what it’s called. A central Ganesh, the Hindu diety who is the Remover of Obstacles, is sitting in the center of six pods, which are also adorned with Ganesh figures.
and the pod lids can now be opened to reveal little wells filled with intensely vibrant colored powder.
While trying to learn more about these powders, I discovered that just this past Monday was Holi, which means Festival of Colors. It’s the Hindu holiday of Spring and celebrated in India with the boisterous communal application of all kinds of color (powder, paint, colored water). There are lots of images out there of the festivities. Below is a small sampling of the many photos of Holi at boston.com.
is it a girl? a quote?
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NO, it's a chest !
As bloggers will say- I'm smitten. I've always been intrigued by chests and dressers. Everyone seems to have a dresser or chest they inherited, they hate or that they inherited and hate. This particular chest photographed with an Olsen atop it and a quote by the same-, says-its all good! But the chest is a show stopper. I know there are paper covered chests and fabric ones- I see them about, but this one is the best of the best- Chest.
What I love about this piece is the use of the Indian floral Chintz and its border placement. The textile has the look of an old one. I'm not advocating cutting up a valuable piece, but if you are up for a project- Give covering an old piece of chest a try. I would love to have one just like this one since the rich luxury of a tented room done up in yards and yards and swathes and swathes of the fabric is completely out of my decorating picture.
A HANDSPUN, HANDWOVEN COTTON HAND-PAINTED MORDANT-DYED, RESIST-DYED AND HAND-PAINTED COROMANDEL COAST OF INDIA, 18C FOR THE THAI MARKET
private collection, Horyu-ji, Nara (image from Narablog)
the real deal-could you possibly take the scissors to something so gorgeous?
something else to do with the Indian chintz-but still, I'd rather have the chest. Does anyone know where it is?
Courtney of style court has several great posts on these Indian florals, here and just recently here.
& The Zhush here found these chests by Byronie Porter recently that are papered, but the company does take commissions and there are papers available that could do-
NO, it's a chest !
As bloggers will say- I'm smitten. I've always been intrigued by chests and dressers. Everyone seems to have a dresser or chest they inherited, they hate or that they inherited and hate. This particular chest photographed with an Olsen atop it and a quote by the same-, says-its all good! But the chest is a show stopper. I know there are paper covered chests and fabric ones- I see them about, but this one is the best of the best- Chest.
What I love about this piece is the use of the Indian floral Chintz and its border placement. The textile has the look of an old one. I'm not advocating cutting up a valuable piece, but if you are up for a project- Give covering an old piece of chest a try. I would love to have one just like this one since the rich luxury of a tented room done up in yards and yards and swathes and swathes of the fabric is completely out of my decorating picture.
Lee Radziwill in one of the most famous of all the
Indian chintz tented rooms designed by Renzo Mongiardino
Saffron Marigold here has gorgeous Indian florals by the yard , favourites below that would make a great chest.
A HANDSPUN, HANDWOVEN COTTON HAND-PAINTED MORDANT-DYED, RESIST-DYED AND HAND-PAINTED COROMANDEL COAST OF INDIA, 18C FOR THE THAI MARKET
private collection, Horyu-ji, Nara (image from Narablog)
the real deal-could you possibly take the scissors to something so gorgeous?
something else to do with the Indian chintz-but still, I'd rather have the chest. Does anyone know where it is?
1780s Robe a l'Anglaise
Indian export 18th c. from Cora Ginsburg
see the most beautiful textiles at Cora Ginsburg here
Courtney of style court has several great posts on these Indian florals, here and just recently here.
& The Zhush here found these chests by Byronie Porter recently that are papered, but the company does take commissions and there are papers available that could do-
DB VIII MERLE
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of Merle Oberon, esteemed HOBAC (the House of Beauty and Culture) said She was exotic before exotic became de trop. Oberon was Anglo-Indian and whether living in India or England the mix was a black mark. Merle stopped her public studies as a child and learned at home because of the stigma. After getting encouragement to try movies-Merle and her Indian mother traveled to Paris and ultimately England where Alexander Korda took her career in hand. A past was invented, her mother lived as Merle's Indian maid and Tasmania, Australia became her place of birth. The story followed this Devastating Beauty her entire life-only upon her death did the truth come to light.
Married four times, Oberon's last husband was Robert Wolders, companion to another Beauty on the List- Audrey Hepburn.
for more about Merle Oberon read this article
for movies and more Oberon here
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"Queenie"
Married four times, Oberon's last husband was Robert Wolders, companion to another Beauty on the List- Audrey Hepburn.
for more about Merle Oberon read this article
for movies and more Oberon here
.
decorations by MAC II
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The elegant interiors of Mica Ertegun and Chessy Rayner-known as MAC II are associated with the New York apartment of the late Bill Blass. Today Mica Ertegun carries on the work, having lost her beautiful and talented business partner Chessy Rayner to cancer over 10 years ago.
Rayner was quoted as saying "We like to mix things up... Our rooms don't have a period look, and not everything has to be a million bucks. What the rooms typically do portray is a simpler, cooler way of looking. They're not too frilly or busy...The less you have, the better good things look. " "Not everything had to be a million dollars,"If you have good taste, you can find good things anywhere." Mica Ertegun. These two started their business in 1967-working out of a large closet in Mica Ertegun's house. In an 1997 interview for her upcoming book Chessy Rayner said"I'm not very sure about it. Rich hippie." She shook her head. "I've done it. I've lived through it. I don't want to do it again." Nor is Mrs. Rayner about to welcome another "hot new thing." "To not mix is sad," she said. "I find that putting Louis the Hooey with, say, abstract art usually works. They do fine together. They soften each other." (William Norwich 1997 here)
Along with the holiday touches- the use of a mirror mimicking a window and the addition of tied back curtains with a bordered edge are ideas easily made successful today. It looks like a carved French bench is placed against the mirror and two tall pillows added to carve out a seating area in the space. Think about this at home.
Moving on to 1969- again MAC II comes across with an entirely up to date series of decorations-I started a 36" wreath in this spirit last year and if I get back to it -I will definitely share the results.
The dining table set with masses of shiny ornaments the central shape formed like a parterre.Other great table setting ideas- the blue chemist bottles-to hold wine for toasting, simple pewter plates, individual salt cellars, but nix the cigarettes. I bring out hurricane globes every year and use them some way. They are timeless pieces for the holiday or any day. I used clementines in them on a client's dining room mantle last week. I plan to use a pair on my own breakfast room table filled with cranberries. Whether a part of the indoor decorations, a dozen hurricane globes and pillar candles are placed outside on my porch Christmas Eve night and Christmas night.
MAC II sets another table with topiary here. This time the table is a beautiful Italian Renaissance antique. The topiary shapes decorate a MAC II decorated library below. The bright navy and red paisley motif fabric is another touch MAC II used 40 years ago. If you think this pattern looks new today-it does, but again it always will-
the continuing influences of India in the designers' work Chessy Rayner-1st image, Mica Ertegen 2nd image
here-an interview with Mica Ertegun from AD, great visuals and advice from the designer.
here New York magazine Playing Chessy.
images from HG old issues as noted, Blass and the "girls" from Mr Peacock here, Chessy Rayner from ID here ,
Mica Ertegen room from the book American Designer's Houses by Dominic Bradbury.
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a MAC II holiday vignette
Rayner was quoted as saying "We like to mix things up... Our rooms don't have a period look, and not everything has to be a million bucks. What the rooms typically do portray is a simpler, cooler way of looking. They're not too frilly or busy...The less you have, the better good things look. " "Not everything had to be a million dollars,"If you have good taste, you can find good things anywhere." Mica Ertegun. These two started their business in 1967-working out of a large closet in Mica Ertegun's house. In an 1997 interview for her upcoming book Chessy Rayner said"I'm not very sure about it. Rich hippie." She shook her head. "I've done it. I've lived through it. I don't want to do it again." Nor is Mrs. Rayner about to welcome another "hot new thing." "To not mix is sad," she said. "I find that putting Louis the Hooey with, say, abstract art usually works. They do fine together. They soften each other." (William Norwich 1997 here)
Blass, Chessy Rayner and Mica Ertegun in the day
In the 1968 House and Garden MAC II created this holiday look for the foyer in a NY client's home. Red walls modern and still great looking are the small textiles.The text suggests the look would be right for Christmases to come. Other than the woven baskets- today's design climate might dictate pair of rustic indian cachpot or a simple pair of twig baskets-but the results are startlingly fresh 41 years later. There is a slight Indian vibe to the fabric of the bench , pillows and curtain.The team was early on referred to as the girls.The "girls" had taste, style and Bill Blass liked the girls-the girls starting working with Bill Blass.
Along with the holiday touches- the use of a mirror mimicking a window and the addition of tied back curtains with a bordered edge are ideas easily made successful today. It looks like a carved French bench is placed against the mirror and two tall pillows added to carve out a seating area in the space. Think about this at home.
Moving on to 1969- again MAC II comes across with an entirely up to date series of decorations-I started a 36" wreath in this spirit last year and if I get back to it -I will definitely share the results.
The dining table set with masses of shiny ornaments the central shape formed like a parterre.Other great table setting ideas- the blue chemist bottles-to hold wine for toasting, simple pewter plates, individual salt cellars, but nix the cigarettes. I bring out hurricane globes every year and use them some way. They are timeless pieces for the holiday or any day. I used clementines in them on a client's dining room mantle last week. I plan to use a pair on my own breakfast room table filled with cranberries. Whether a part of the indoor decorations, a dozen hurricane globes and pillar candles are placed outside on my porch Christmas Eve night and Christmas night.
Paisley document 1800
the continuing influences of India in the designers' work Chessy Rayner-1st image, Mica Ertegen 2nd image
here-an interview with Mica Ertegun from AD, great visuals and advice from the designer.
here New York magazine Playing Chessy.
images from HG old issues as noted, Blass and the "girls" from Mr Peacock here, Chessy Rayner from ID here ,
Mica Ertegen room from the book American Designer's Houses by Dominic Bradbury.
.
Money Counts
A friend brought back these rupee coins from India recently. Great example of "show don't tell." What's not so great is the reason--literacy rates in India. The rates vary tremendously between genders, classes and regions. Overall literacy for men is 76%, while the rate for women is 54%. Regionally, the rates vary from a high of 91% in Kerala to 47% in Bihar.
Hardware at HILLWOOD, & Ladies of the Club
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knock knock?
& more about Hillwood- It is impressive. It is FABULOUS! As I mentioned in a previous post- when I go through these grand houses I like to find things I can take home-that is to say IDEAS I can take home.
An Emerald?
1929 Giulio De Blaas
this portrait of MMP & her daughter Nedinia hangs in the upstairs hall
Why Yes- I will, thank you-I admit it to be one of my favourite stones & NO I don't have any-YET.
Have a look at Mrs Post's:
this breathtaking photograph is from the November Town & Country
click to Enlarge the images to see the incredible detail
I am woefully inadequate to talk about emeralds-any kind of jewel. I turned to the expert- Debra Healy. She is a fine jeweler,an authority on & a historian of jewelry & launched two blogs in the Summer. Her books include : Tiffany et les Joialliers Americains, American Jewelry: Glamour & Tradition, Hollywood Jewels: Movies, Jewelry & Stars. Her absolutely wonderful blogs are Diamonds & Rhubarb (here)- and Paris Originals (here). Neither will disappoint.
Debra said:
From ancient Sanskrit sources it is known that emeralds have be valued and used for over 1500 years in India. After Pizarro’s ruthless conquest of the Incas, even new world emeralds found there way into royal Indian collections. The princely states of India were ready recipients for any fine large stones found throughout the world .
The Large Central Stone In Mrs. Post’s brooch has a carved Mughal floral motif . It is roughly dated from its inscription “The servant of Shah Abbas” it is not known weather it was Shah Abbas I (1557-1629) or Shah Abbas II (1633-1667). It is known that large emeralds were coveted by Shah Jahan, a contemporary of Shah Abbas II. The other emeralds in this piece were probably carved in the 19th century.
This Brooch was originally made by Cartier London for stock in 1923. It was altered by Cartier New York for Mrs. E.F. Hutton ( Marjorie Merriweather Post) in 1928. It was later altered again in 1941 to its present shortened form.
I love these Mughal emeralds they were handled so deftly by Cartier during this period. The carved emeralds give an exotic orientalist flair to these large sumptuous jewels. They are set off so perfectly by the hard edges of the brilliantly cut diamonds and black enamel.
(Can you imagine that it was shortened in 1941 to its present form of 8 inches? The brooch is made up of eight hundred round diamonds & 250 carats of emeralds.)
more from a conversation with Debra:
I once read several books on Vedic Astrology, I was interested in use of precious gems to augment unfavorable aspects of ones chart. Books with titles like,“ Gems and Astrology a guide to health and prosperity” - I was prescribed a yellow sapphire by a Brahman astrologer. I could not wear it. Apart from that, I love all exquisite gems. I remember the first time I saw a sizable Kashmir Sapphire, I felt as if I had a weight on my chest, as if I could not breathe, it literally took my breath away.
Similarly the first time I saw a true Burma ruby, it has a quality of light like no other . If you put a UV light over it, it fluoresces (Lights up) like the tail light of a Ferrari.
There are very few Burma rubies over 5 carats this 19.41 carat stone is exceptionally rare. It is set in a ring, surrounded with diamonds.
Image Christie’s
Having spent some of my formative years in Iran, as the daughter of a diplomat, I love Persian turquoise.
Here-Persian turquoise, engraved and inlaid with pure gold inscriptions of sacred text from Iran. These stones are still on the lapidary sticks on which they were cut and engraved.( 19th century)
My tastes are diverse, and every jewel has a story-
Our Darling Duchess WWW & her Indian style bib necklace of turquoise, 294 carats of royal amethysts & diamonds. Cartier's 1947 exotic concoction of color and mix of precious and semiprecious stones was daring & made way for the hippie chic gypset style icons of the 1960's and today. Would the Duchess be amused?
( oh & yes the necklace had a matching set of ear clips.)
Town & Country features 9 of "the Lucky Ladies of Cartier" in the November issue. Bruce Weber has a new book chronicling the spectacular jewelry of Cartier and the women that loved wearing them, CARTIER: I LOVE YOU.
.
knock knock?
& more about Hillwood- It is impressive. It is FABULOUS! As I mentioned in a previous post- when I go through these grand houses I like to find things I can take home-that is to say IDEAS I can take home.
An Emerald?
1929 Giulio De Blaasthis portrait of MMP & her daughter Nedinia hangs in the upstairs hall
Why Yes- I will, thank you-I admit it to be one of my favourite stones & NO I don't have any-YET.
Have a look at Mrs Post's:
this breathtaking photograph is from the November Town & Country
click to Enlarge the images to see the incredible detail
I am woefully inadequate to talk about emeralds-any kind of jewel. I turned to the expert- Debra Healy. She is a fine jeweler,an authority on & a historian of jewelry & launched two blogs in the Summer. Her books include : Tiffany et les Joialliers Americains, American Jewelry: Glamour & Tradition, Hollywood Jewels: Movies, Jewelry & Stars. Her absolutely wonderful blogs are Diamonds & Rhubarb (here)- and Paris Originals (here). Neither will disappoint.
Debra said:
From ancient Sanskrit sources it is known that emeralds have be valued and used for over 1500 years in India. After Pizarro’s ruthless conquest of the Incas, even new world emeralds found there way into royal Indian collections. The princely states of India were ready recipients for any fine large stones found throughout the world .
The Large Central Stone In Mrs. Post’s brooch has a carved Mughal floral motif . It is roughly dated from its inscription “The servant of Shah Abbas” it is not known weather it was Shah Abbas I (1557-1629) or Shah Abbas II (1633-1667). It is known that large emeralds were coveted by Shah Jahan, a contemporary of Shah Abbas II. The other emeralds in this piece were probably carved in the 19th century.
This Brooch was originally made by Cartier London for stock in 1923. It was altered by Cartier New York for Mrs. E.F. Hutton ( Marjorie Merriweather Post) in 1928. It was later altered again in 1941 to its present shortened form.
I love these Mughal emeralds they were handled so deftly by Cartier during this period. The carved emeralds give an exotic orientalist flair to these large sumptuous jewels. They are set off so perfectly by the hard edges of the brilliantly cut diamonds and black enamel.
(Can you imagine that it was shortened in 1941 to its present form of 8 inches? The brooch is made up of eight hundred round diamonds & 250 carats of emeralds.)
Jewelry history is a fascinating study through which we can see the financial status and aspirations of a nation, and its wealthy elite. The migration of great gems from European royal treasuries in the 19th century. Into the hands of the new wealth of America tells us a lot. Families like the Vanderbilts, the Walsh-McLeans, the Dukes, and the Huttons acquired some of the most famous gems in History.
Marjorie Merriweather Post’s Collection is an outstanding example illustrating this time in history- an American entrepreneurial fortune, Russia’s misfortune, and their desperate need for cash. Mrs. Post-Davies personal fortune, and her yacht the, Sea Cloud, in Leningrad harbor shopped the country. Cash is king.
The Russia and India treasuries were transported to Europe in 1917-1950. Gems are indeed a form of flight capital. Many were then sold to Americans. Now we are coming full circle- who are the clients? Newly minted Indian Billionaires, Russian Oligarchs, Central Asian and Saudi petroleum princes. The gems are changing hands yet again. America is no longer the great buyer. This tells us even more.
The Russia and India treasuries were transported to Europe in 1917-1950. Gems are indeed a form of flight capital. Many were then sold to Americans. Now we are coming full circle- who are the clients? Newly minted Indian Billionaires, Russian Oligarchs, Central Asian and Saudi petroleum princes. The gems are changing hands yet again. America is no longer the great buyer. This tells us even more.
It is impossible to determine the origin of a sapphire or a ruby with out a laboratory. Examination with a jewelers loupe can be helpful, but a certificate is essential to establish the true value in the marketplace today. By microscopic and other laboratory tests the source of origin is established through analysis of the trace elements within the crystal.
...and ladies of the club
Mrs. Ronald Tree or as we refer to her- Nancy Lancaster & her rubies, pearls & diamonds. Mrs. Tree, always innovative-commissioned Cartier in 1930 for this sautoir necklace could be worn as a long necklace, or transformed into a bracelet & shorter necklace. Made up of 450 carats of charged fiery rubies, 90 pearls and 21 sparkling diamonds, it must have especially have done so on Mrs. Tree at Ditchley.
more from a conversation with Debra:
I once read several books on Vedic Astrology, I was interested in use of precious gems to augment unfavorable aspects of ones chart. Books with titles like,“ Gems and Astrology a guide to health and prosperity” - I was prescribed a yellow sapphire by a Brahman astrologer. I could not wear it. Apart from that, I love all exquisite gems. I remember the first time I saw a sizable Kashmir Sapphire, I felt as if I had a weight on my chest, as if I could not breathe, it literally took my breath away.
A unique cushion-shaped Kashmir sapphire weighing 42.88 carats
Similarly the first time I saw a true Burma ruby, it has a quality of light like no other . If you put a UV light over it, it fluoresces (Lights up) like the tail light of a Ferrari.
There are very few Burma rubies over 5 carats this 19.41 carat stone is exceptionally rare. It is set in a ring, surrounded with diamonds.
Image Christie’sHaving spent some of my formative years in Iran, as the daughter of a diplomat, I love Persian turquoise.
Here-Persian turquoise, engraved and inlaid with pure gold inscriptions of sacred text from Iran. These stones are still on the lapidary sticks on which they were cut and engraved.( 19th century)
My tastes are diverse, and every jewel has a story-
Our Darling Duchess WWW & her Indian style bib necklace of turquoise, 294 carats of royal amethysts & diamonds. Cartier's 1947 exotic concoction of color and mix of precious and semiprecious stones was daring & made way for the hippie chic gypset style icons of the 1960's and today. Would the Duchess be amused?
( oh & yes the necklace had a matching set of ear clips.)
Daisy Fellowes posed by Cecil Beaton in 1937-wearing the HINDU necklace created for her in 1936. Here it seems all the elements merged into a rarefied riot of stones, shapes and colors that became known as a Cartier signature look known as Tutti Fruitti. The necklace is featured in T&C as modified by Fellowes' daughter in 1963. Here again are all the emeralds, rubies and nearly 250 carats of sapphires- a stunning pile of rocks!
Of course Debra did a Fabulous post of the Bruce Weber book earlier in the year- Cartier 100 Years in America here.
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