thinking Shibui

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A return to  ancient Japanese aesthetics  in our modern lives is an honorable path for any Aesthete-the practiced or the novice- to pursue. Thanks to Philip Bewley of  THERIEN & COMPANY,  right now I am looking at images from the August 1960 House Beautiful -" Discover Shibui: The Word for the Highest Level in Beauty. " I was privileged to  add some comments to Philip's recent essay and have persuaded him to share its content with my readers.

DISCOVER SHIBUI-Philip Bewley

“One of the most influential issues ever by a design magazine” is how the August 1960 issue by House Beautiful magazine titled, “ Discover Shibui: The Word for the Highest Level in Beauty” is described in the archives of the Smithsonian Institution (The Elizabeth Gordon Papers. Freer Gallery of Art and Arthur M. Sackler Gallery Archives). The August “Shibui” issue was followed by the September 1960 issue “How to be Shibui with American Things”. These two landmark magazine issues introduced the American public to Japanese aesthetic of shibui (or shibusa). Elizabeth Gordon, House Beautiful editor (1941-1964) wrote in the August issue “Shibui describes a profound, unassuming, quiet feeling. It is unobtrusive and unostentatious. It may have hidden attainments, but they are not paraded or displayed. The form is simple and must have been arrived at with an economy of means. Shibui is never complicated or contrived.”

photograph by Philip Bewley

THE SEVEN QUALIFIERS

Shibui has seven qualifiers: simplicity, implicitness, modesty, silence, naturalness, everydayness, and imperfection.

Gelatin silver print. The Museum of Fine Arts, Houston, Ishimoto Yasuhiro

 

AN EDITOR'S RESEARCH

When she covered a topic, she did it in staggering depth,” said Louis Oliver Gropp (Editor House Beautiful magazine, 1991-2000). In Postwar America of the 1950’s, Elizabeth Gordon began noticing Japanese objects being displayed in the homes of Americans who had spent time in Japan during the Occupation. As Editor in Chief of House Beautiful magazine, Gordon read everything she could on Japan before making a visit to that country with a few members of her staff in the spring of 1959. Her extensive library on Japanese history, social mores, art history is now in the collection of the University of Maryland. It was in Kyoto where she became introduced to the aesthetic concept of shibui. In the course of discussions on Japanese aesthetics the theme for a “shibui” issue took hold. Returning home to the U.S., Gordon found virtually nothing written in English on the concept. Two more trips to Japan were taken in preparation, research and photography for the shibui issues. Gordon was in Japan in Mid-August 1960 as the "shibui issue" was causing a sensation. Altogether she spent sixteen months in Japan.

Photograph: Ishimoto Yasuhiro

EAST MEETS WEST

While Western art had certainly been influenced by the decorative arts of Japan before these issues, nothing in English had been written on the Japanese aesthetic of shibui before Elizabeth Gordon introduced shibui to the American public. “These issues were published just as I was finishing high school and preparing to go into design so they were incredibly timely in my development,” Says Bob Garcia (Therien & Co.). “Fortunately I went to The Rudolph Schaeffer School of Design soon thereafter and given the Asian bent to the school's curriculum. The colors and compositions of Shibui were engrained in my own aesthetic.”

“It seems quite obvious that the intensely close relationship between the Japanese culture and nature should manifest itself in Shibui. 

The colors and combination of tones and textures are so reflective of those one sees in landscapes and forests; 

so different from our western concepts of man's "mastery" over nature with our brilliant colors and sharp contrasts.

Somehow it all seems related to the different concepts in gardens.... 

the European "taming" of elements and the Japanese "abstract re-interpretation" of them.” 

Robert Roy Garcia, Therien & Co.

Photograph by Ezra Stoller; schemes assembled by John Hill; 1960, for House Beautiful magazine, Elizabeth Gordon, Editor

Ginkaku-ji by Kiichi Asano/Elizabeth Gordon Assoc.Kiichi Asano (1914-1993) - Japanese photographer,

by way of the estate of Elizabeth Gordon (Norcross), editor-in-chief of House Beautiful Magazine from 1941 to 1964.

 photograph by Philip Bewley

BORN IN A TRUNK

I first discovered the House Beautiful shibui issues in a trunk of old magazines when I was a boy. It must have been about 1973 or so. The declaration on the cover that “The Highest level of Beauty” was to be found within must have caught my eye, but I think it was the combination with the second issue, “How to be Shibui with American Things” that opened my mind to the notion that there were considerations behind beauty, and that these ideas were not necessarily Japanese, but were in fact all around me.

 photograph by Philip Bewley

Ryoan-ji Temple Garden /Kiichi Asano/Elizabeth Gordon. Kiichi Asano (1914-1993) - Japanese photographer, 

by way of the estate of Elizabeth Gordon (Norcross), editor-in-chief of House Beautiful Magazine from 1941 to 1964.

SHIBUI SENSATION

Elizabeth Gordon’s August 1960 "Shibui" issue sold out quickly. Copies of the magazine, which originally sold for fifty cents, were being sold privately by 1961 for ten dollars. Immediately following the publication, House Beautiful offices received an unprecedented avalanche of fan mail. Writing in with praise for the issue were department heads in colleges and universities, including the Harvard-Yenching Institute and the Oriental Institute of the University of Chicago, even a letter from the famed couturier, Mainbocher.

Photograph by Ezra Stoller; schemes assembled by John Hill; 1960, for House Beautiful magazine, Elizabeth Gordon, Editor

THE SHIBUI ROADSHOW

After the wild success of the two “shibui issues”, House Beautiful staff prepared a traveling exhibition to eleven museums across the United States to introduce the concept of "shibui" through a series of vignettes, mixing fabrics and objects, colors and textures. Japan Air Lines underwrote shipping costs. Commencing the tour in 1961, the Shibui exhibition arrived in San Francisco in April 1962. Elizabeth Gordon presented a lecture accompanied by lanternslides on "shibui" at each of the museum installations.

Photograph by Ezra Stoller; schemes assembled by John Hill; 1960, for House Beautiful magazine, Elizabeth Gordon, Editor

HONORS

In appreciation of Elizabeth Gordon’s work in introducing Americans to the concept of shibui, the city of Kyoto presented to her a bolt of "shibui" kimono fabric executed by a Living National Treasure textile artist.
In 1987 Elizabeth Gordon (Norcross) was named an honorary member of the American Institute of Architects, with her introduction of the concept of "shibui" to the United States and her promotion of an understanding of other cultures cited as a major contribution to American architecture.

(all text, quotes are from Philip Bewley, with permission) 

As for me while looking at these 1960 photographs, I thought of looking at them as if the last 50 years of interior design had not existed. Impossible? 
Yes, somewhat. 
After looking at shibui, I think designers should consider rethinking some “off the rails” ideas considered of the moment, at the moment and return to this Japanese aesthetic in order to cleanse the palate- as it were.

Gelatin silver print. The Museum of Fine Arts, Houston; Gift of the artist in memory of Ishimoto Shigeru, 2009.265 © Ishimoto Yasuhiro

What struck me most about the concepts of SHIBUI was this one-

SHIBUI

simplicity, 

implicitness, 

modesty,

silence, 

naturalness, 

everydayness, 

and

imperfection.

"It may have hidden attainments, but they are not paraded or displayed."

Elizabeth Gordon

 Pauline de Rothschild's Dining Room

 image from NEST magazine winter 98/99

Though Pauline de Rothschild was always seeking perfection in the her very private world -this Dining room is the very essence of Shibui.  Moving beyond the concept in the Japanese interior, de Rothschild's studied imperfections were mastery in shibui.  A great reader- de Rothschild was intrigued by the work of Japanese writer, Yukio Mishima  and in her singular book- The Irrational Journey she writes with the tools of a Shibui Master:

simplicity, 

implicitness, 

modesty,

silence, 

naturalness, 

everydayness, 

and

imperfection.

This concept of hidden attainments - connects seamlessly with the Pauline de Rothschild aesthetic.

Shibui beauty, as in the beauty of Tea Ceremony, is beauty that makes an artist of the viewer."

Elizabeth Gordon

Pauline de Rothschild- Bedroom

image from NEST magazine, Winter 98/99

It seems to me photographers are the most qualified observers of  SHIBUI, whether photographing fashion, architecture or documenting the world around them.

 Henry Clarke captured it in this 1965 photograph of  Veruschka for Vogue.

 simplicity, 

implicitness, 

modesty,

silence, 

naturalness, 

everydayness, 

and

imperfection.

Fellow blogger, Bruce Barone has mastered the Art-this everydayness.
His keen abilities to see the Beauty around him everywhere have struck me as I've followed his blog here.

East Hampton Mass, photograph by Bruce Barone

This is one of Bruce's photograph that interprets the idea of Shibui and seems artistically to be- Shibui perfection. The simplicity of the landscape, the hay field-patched in places & in other places conforming along the line of man's labor. Amidst the field- a cart stands as testament to that labor -yet its design stand in perfect companionship there with nature.

Photo credit: Gelatin silver print. The Museum of Fine Arts, Houston; Gift of the artist in memory of Ishimoto Shigeru, 2009.265 © Ishimoto Yasuhiro

In today's saturated design field there are pictures, photographs, images, mood boards-especially those where we see heap upon heap of fillers piled on tables- in order to finish a room, photograph a room, sell a product. It's unavoidable really.  
Am I too hard on my chosen field, and its inhabitants of the blogosphere? 
Maybe- but I don't think I'll be changing my mind any time soon, especially with this new idea- SHIBUI- permeating. 
More than ever it seems having an eye that can interpret the past and make it a part of today's world-whether it be Art, Design, Fashion- is key.


My thoughts on the subject led me right to the of the work of Rose Tarlow:

photographs from her book-  The Private House

Here are a few excerpts from her interview with ARCHITECTURAL DIGEST,  it is obvious she is a Master of the ART.


Who or what has influenced my style...Everything I see! I’m influenced especially by nature. A tree influences me. I once said that a tropical fish influences me. I’m influenced by anything that’s natural. There’s a certain cleanliness, an order in the universe, that I try to emulate if I can. 

There are many rules designers and architects should bear in mind. one is...Study. Learn the rules before you break them. I always think that a good artist who does abstract work must also know how to paint in the classical way. In design, learn the classics, study the past, study the great architecture and design of the world, and then draw from all of that your own perspective. 

The mistake most people make when doing their own designing is...Taking themselves too seriously. They get too intense and allow themselves to second-guess. They should take their time and enjoy the process and the end product. Do it slowly.



One of my fellow bloggers- a stylist Thea Beasley has kept faith with this Japanese concept of beauty-elegantly, beautifully, in a most unassuming way-meaning she is a Master:

at  home

simplicity, 

implicitness, 

modesty,

silence, 

naturalness, 

everydayness, 

and

imperfection.

(photographs by Thea Beasley)

 & in her work.

Thea- for her client Lacefield Designs

 photographs used with permission

I am going to continue to keep the ideas of  SHIBUI as an ongoing path.

Meditation at Mittineague Park, photograph by Bruce Barone

simplicity, 

implicitness, 

modesty,

silence, 

naturalness, 

everydayness, 

and

imperfection.

SHIBUI is "…beauty with inner implications."

Kiichi Asano/Elizabeth Gordon. Kiichi Asano (1914-1993) - Japanese photographer,

by way of the estate of Elizabeth Gordon (Norcross), editor-in-chief of House Beautiful Magazine from 1941 to 1964.

"It is not a beauty displayed before the viewer by its creator; 

creation here means making a piece that will lead the viewer to draw beauty out of it for oneself.  

Shibui beauty, as in the beauty of Tea Ceremony, 

is beauty that makes an artist of the viewer." 

-Elizabeth Gordon

A Note from Philip Bewley-

The tagline on the cover of the August 1960 House Beautiful issue “Discover Shibui” is not quite correct. Shibui is an adjective, while the noun form is Shibusa. Like the aesthetic concept itself, the translation of shibusa from Japanese to English is nuanced. Perhaps a more satisfactory translation would be:
Beauty = Shibusa (noun)
Beautiful = Shibui (adjective)
Beauty is to Beautiful as Shibusa is to Shibui.

( for the purposes of my thoughts I have held to Elizabeth Gordon's use of the word-she was a Master.) 

House Beautiful.com linked here and in bold type  within the text of the post

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Brimfield Blues

I have to believe that at some point during the Brimfield antique show's 50-year history, some dejected dealer, picking away at an unsold Gibson, came up with the Brimfield Blues. I’m imagining that it was in the 95-degree heat of July, or a solid week of rain. One thing I can say for sure, though, is that it was not written nor sung this year. I’ve never seen a happier bunch of dealers than the vendors at Brimfield last week. I’d say the report on sales ranged from happy to delirious. That’s how good business was—even after one day. I’m sure there’s a economic indicator in there somewhere …

But back to blue. My first treat of the day was waiting for me in the bushes right outside the front door. Four exquisite robin’s eggs, in an expertly crafted nest. Consummate perfection is definitely a good way to start the day.

We stopped at the Sturbridge Coffee House for refueling, and were greeted by this fabulous Plymouth Fury parked right in front. By the way they have very delicious muffin tops and a sign at the counter poses the question, "What's Your Cup Size?"
It was when I watched Terry get out of the car in her cerulean parka, that I realized there was a definite blue thing going on.
Here’s how the theme played out the rest of the day…

Roof level of a multistory toy parking garage










Aren’t these incredible? They were rescued from an old house in Massachusetts and were at the same Antique Therapy booth I wrote about the other day. So far, I haven’t been able to find anything about the Armand Art Studio of Detroit.

Blue eyeshadow--just the right accent for a pink cat. Don't you think?

Artist, Terry Rosen, was scouring Brimfield for vintage New England ephemera. When she hunts, she doesn’t just look on the tables, she looks under the tables. Which is a good thing because her eagle eye spotted this flea market equivalent of “today’s news, tomorrow’s fish wrap.”

where Magazines go to die

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"A magazine is like a best friend.
One always keeps Learning from them &
One Loves them more with Age."

I am a magazine hoarder. It is something I admit with a certain sort of Pride-though when dusting across the bookshelves-I say that in hushed tones. It's hard to toss them, always has been.

What would I do without them?
I never thought I'd have to really answer that question. I will never go without, as my stash goes back more years than I will admit. I honestly find many back issues more inspiring than the current issues I see staring back at me on a bench in my sitting room. Why?

What will the landscape of the magazine be in say-ten years, twenty, thirty?
The future looks bleak...

from my prized possession of all the now defunct NEST magazine issues
One of THE Absolute BEST EVER Magazines of its kind
(it was too good for this cruel world)

NEST issues Archives

Magazines are emotional. No one NEEDS a magazine, (No, You really don't), but there is something about the beautifully laid out articles, the gloss, the text and the photography that a blog page can not do." As one veteran editor once explained to me, the best magazines make you feel like tearing open the plastic wrap the second that they arrive in your mailbox and curling up on the couch with them, ignoring whatever plans you had for the evening." (quote from Gabriel Sherman's article The Magazine Isn't Dying) This couldn't be more true- however less and less do I find a magazine that lures me in this way. Why?



What does the our style and design blogging community bring to the table?
Can it fill the gaps that the loss of magazines such as HOUSE & GARDEN, DOMINO, SOUTHERN ACCENTS ? These my dears represent only a tiny bite from the apple. I miss them- but there are so many more defunct reads-check out the site- Magazine Death Pool- sadly, but aptly named, chronicling the magazines demise. It is Truly astounding.



Domino- for me was the substitute magazine sent to fulfill my subscription when HG passed on to the Conde Nast scrap heap.I was angry with Domino for inserting itself into my post box- when I didn't ask for it I was missed my House and Garden. It was like losing a dear old companion-cat and immediately dropping a crazy little kitten at my door. It was darling,but I just wasn't ready. Out of Magazine LOVE, I grew quite fond of Domino though- and then what happens? Domino- does just that- it folds.

So what is next for design Magazines & Blogs ?
With still standing favorites, Elle Decor, World of Interiors- I find myself heading to the middle or back of the issue to read the content. I will admit- I always "read" them that way. Later I will go through the entire magazine and read regular features and columns, quickly skipping over the ADs- and therein lies the conundrum. Advertisers drive the magazine-It's why we continue to get these rare birds in the post.The magazine world has been glutted for a few years now with offspring- Vogue> Teen Vogue> Men's Vogue> Vogue Living. (Personally I think Vogue had something with Vogue Living but-). Booming economy & business, More advertising. Economic decline-advertisers pull ADs from magazines that do not have viable subscriber numbers. According to a number of online sources- This is the key to a particular magazine's demise.



What I love seeing- is an unstyled, lived in home. I love reading interviews with actual quotes from designers. I recently remember a blog post about designer ELIZABETH MARTIN from Lana Burroughs at Topsy Turvy. The post was an interview elaborating on the Elle Decor cover story about Ali Wentworth's home. The house was also featured in The Washington Post too. For me, the story came to life with the designer's interview from Lana Burroughs. The Elle Decor and the Post story emphasized the owner- front and center as decorator, the Topsy Turvy story focused on the designer. Why the print stories focus attention on much of the work as Wentworth's - I do not kn0w, But that is certainly another story? This example for the most part is a beautiful blending of three sources about one home. The photographs from the Post and Elle did not overlap- the content was unique in them all. (I've linked these three stories in this text).
If magazine articles are what drive a blog's content- extending the story should be a prerequisite when deciding to post magazine photographs lifted from its pages. Light content loaded with images does little to elevate an original story taken from any magazine. I ALSO enjoy the NYSD posts about Designers- it is an interview format with unstyled photographs. The NYTimes- T MAGAZINE is one top notch publication in every way. The most some of the most original content, perspective and photography anywhere. The MOMENT blog dovetails with it seamlessly.


What next? Interestingly enough- as I thought about this post and sought comments from respected friends- few responded. Maybe it is the unanswerable question. It is new territory for everyone.
One of my friends in the business did say this:

"Quite honestly I enjoy blogging (reading them) as much actual magazines, however, I can't imagine blogs replacing magazines entirely. I find that blogs are easier to get through in short amounts of time and you get a much broader array of opinions/outlooks. The one thing that I do especially enjoy is being able to rip out magazine pages to add to my ever growing files." Alex

I agree Alex. I do find magazines exciting, let's face it -It is THE original. Certainly every blogger aspires to write for one of the magazine's left on the stands today- Don't they?

..in a SWIDE interview Blogger Liberty London Girl gave her take on Print v. Web

"Although I get most of my news online, & think most front of book pages have been made pretty much redundant by the web, I still prefer to look at fashion editorial in print. There’s something about the smell & the tactile quality of paper, the saturation of the colour and the size of the pages. I do think we will see dramatic changes in the print world in the next five years as advertising revenues decline and audiences become more sophisticated."

SO the Question to pose is- "As the pool of magazines gets smaller and smaller, it will inevitably mean the interiors available to cover will become more competitively sought after. How many people who read style blogs would be willing to read about a full house online rather than in the pages of a magazine?"

Will the future of your favourite be ONLINE- ? or on your shelves labeled "Magazine Death Pool?"
What do you think?

Read More at the following sites:
Ad Age
Mr Magazine "New Launches"
Blog List from the MOMENT NYTIMES

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