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Showing posts with label grey. Show all posts
Showing posts with label grey. Show all posts

the days of gray Nattier

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Jean Marc Nattier,  Portrait of Mademoiselle Chamisot




Jean Marc Nattier, Madame Henriette de France as a Vestal Virgin


On occasion the topic comes up here.
Often- more often it comes up there.
On  my head.  
Yes, I am going gray-and wish for the day when grey was Nattier. Nattier had the knack. He could make the Ladies of Court quite the beauties-yet maintain a striking likeness. They after centuries still are beautiful, ethereal, mythological & their hair is gray.



 Jean-Marc Nattier, Comtesse de Tillieres



You see where I'm going with this-don't you?
Women are berated- No, not too strong, they do. 
Berated for not caring about themselves, not keeping themselves "up"- giving up.
Gray hair does not mean a woman doesn't care.
It means she is going gray-part of the natural aging process remember-and hey- may I add- it is not an easy trip. Women that take that road will suffer through the process.
At some point it will become obvious that more than one appointment with COLOUR has been missed.
Passers by and friends- "You're doing that on purpose?"


Jean-Marc Nattier Madame Marsollier and her Daughter




Men start balding-and contrary to what might be said-they're not all Yul Brenners- Patrick Stewarts-Vin Diesels. So-take it easy on the graying. 
Yes- men do have the "distinguishing" gray temples-no arguments.
Their gray distinguishes them.
They go gray gracefully.
They still care.


Enter Kristen McMenamy-a 45 year old model, mother that has let it go gray & wouldn't she have been glorious as a Nattier?




Editor Franca Sozzani has embraced gray & McMenamy featuring her on two recent covers and countless editorials.  The gray is natural, long,







She gives gray a much needed redemption-it can't be too soon. Is it becoming desirable even? It takes time to go gray. trust me-I'm going there. Fortunately- I've been given a secret boost to set me off to "grayer" heights from friend-she is a good one- and a wonderful COLOURIST. My grandmother was gray-a white- pretty grey- really -at an early age & my father's was the same.
Both were striking -will I be?
I don't know if I've got their roots-I hope so, I only know there's a lot- a lot of gray up there.



Jean-Marc Nattier, Madame de Maison Rouge as Diana



Nattier's sitters were actually desirous of  gray or even a touch of violet-a blue-a pink- a yellow.
Most often used were powders. The powder was made from finely ground starch, scented with orange flower, lavender, or orris root and colour was added. 
Delicious!


Jean Marc Nattier, Victoire de France


Wigs were an option, but many of Nattier's grays were loving their own hair and powdering it.
Wigs-they come later, but the powdering would stay light for a time. Though light, powdering became de rigueur for "dressing" til the end of the 18th century.
For the most part men were the wanton wig wearers.

Most admired of the age-most of Madame Pompadour's portraits depict her with a simple braid originating at the neck & locks at the forehead & powder to get that touch of gray.



all portraits of Madame Pompadour as Diana


1746



1748



 1748





1752





Gray? Are you-going?
Think Nattier-Madame Pompadour & the natural aging process.





again with the GRAY here- graying with grace?




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graying with grace?

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it might be a record of sorts. the recent post in the New York TImes Why Can't Middle Age Women Have Long Hair by Dominique Browning- found 1256 comments stringing just beyond her last words 'The short of it is that long hair means there is always, at least, hope.'  She started something.

This seems to be a habit with the writer- she is likely the most beloved editor of the woefully defunct House and Garden magazine, author of countless exceptional books and now a blog, entitled Slow Love Life- also the title of her latest book. That her list of credits is enviable-apparently, a lot of people are on the fence about her hair.

It is Long.
It is Gray.
It seems it is the combination that really flies in the face of what is proper for old-I say that with love-however- more mature sounds more-well, loving, so let's go with that.

The article caught my attention and as I finished its first reading my comment- To Self: That sounds about right, I will get there. At 55, the author has taken the plunge and let it fly -loud and proud. At 51, I'm not there yet-though my hair stays at about shoulder length for the last twenty years, in varying shades of brown, blonde, & yes-I swear, purple once. The purple-fained as RED, was not- RED-it was purple. So what is it like at the moment- RED, not purple- and it is just right- at the moment.


Yes, the maintenance is going to be hell- mind numbing. I finally found something like my idyllic childhood color. A distinct gray streak either side of the part has emerged overnight after about 1 month. I find myself pulling at the part pressing down-How much gray is there really?  My Loved Ones swear they can't see a thing. Hum?  After sending a photograph of the stunning Ines de la Fressange- as she recently appeared on the Chanel runway- to my longtime friend and stylist, we conferred in front of a full length mirror. In more or less these words she said:
You want to go red.
I: of course not.
:that has a great deal of red in it. At this point she could see I was backing down-
but this time-to my surprise, I didn't.  Everyone that has noticed the RED, or I have prodded to notice says they like it- No- I think they Love it.

Dominque Browning thinks-rather knows-Men love long hair. They think it's sexy. (her words) She sites fictional literature and myth as her sources for this knowledge, and I am sure she is working from first hand experience as well. Now here we do part ways- I don't think this is quite accurate. Perhaps collectively MEN prefer it-it is fantasy. If their reality includes a well loved woman with a darling pixie cut- they would, or should, adamantly disagree. Since my own experience is lackluster- for few MEN In My PAST  have offered a firm opinion-more the - I like it however you like it. Hum? Maybe that was a lie. Anyway- they are no longer PRESENT. Those MEN I do count on for reassurance- two older brothers and a nephew, offered their unique and for each-not surprising- comments.



Right after I went RED, I had dinner with one of my brothers. Standing beside him- I wait for  the shock, the awe. He looks at me- then catches a glimpse of our mother, who just had her hair cut about an inch- and says, "Oh, look- Mom's had her hair done." (exact words) I was flabbergasted! Really. I Mean Flabbergasted.
I:"Kev! I can not believe you are standing right next to ME and my hair is RED & you didn't notice, how can that be possible, I can't believe it?" (all in one string of exclamations- just like that).
He: "Oh, You , did. It looks good." Just as he always has, in his smiling laughing kind of way. It is charming and diverting. We giggled like we did when we were best buddies.

Next brother- Paul, my oldest sibling , I just went right in for it:
"I dyed my hair, It's RED." 
He: "I see that."
Lastly, from my 22 year old nephew, JT, born with sagacity in full, and Bless Him, He loves me just as Aunt Gaye-immediately He said:
"Yes, that's mostly how I remember your hair being." Of course- He is right. It was like saying welcome home, Aunt Gaye.

So how do you get to the point of putting chemical dyes on your head, scalp- permeating ? My niece, Liz at 27 has beautiful blonde hair - always has. This summer when she breezed into our family mountain gathering, her hair was noticeably more blonde.
Her question to her Gran and Me-"If you didn't know me, would you think it was natural?" Both, mother and I laughed, and then we all three laughed wildly. Her father-ever the diplomat,Paul, said when asked if he noticed, replied, "Why Yes, I didn't know if it was appropriate to comment on the change?" That is LOVE. I declare-these are the people that would not care if your hair was green- they LOVE you, so they LOVE your HAIR.

One of my favorite blogs to visit is Catherine's The Blushing Hostess Entertains, writes in Don't Bend  
'be fearless. Cut if you want to, but not because social more's flattened your resolve to maintain it. And not because someone else prefers it another way. Do it because you want to see someone you recognize in the mirror. And because she is beautiful that way.' I agree with this lovely young woman. What I do struggle with it the maintenance, and it will only get worse. It IS Getting Worse. So will it stay long. My father's four aunts and grandmother all maintained very long hair throughout most of their lives. Shocked as a child, one day I found my MaMa out on a bench brushing the longest, grayest hair I had ever seen. Draping just along the ground, she always wore it in a neat coil-this machination performed by one of her four daughters-who always seemed to be just waiting to be called for the task. As my mother says:
"the Women of your father's family prefer long hair - I don't know why, but I guess you do too." Hum?
These same women have married often or never married-so I'm not sure if the Long Hair Gene really exists but it does seem to be Trend rather than Trait. That it will go Gray sooner rather than later is becoming obvious- my grandmother was prematurely gray-white as a matter of fact- and that was most becoming.
IF ONLY. That is likely to be my fate. I have no cause to believe my hair will ever co-operate with my desires as it is yet to do so.

I'm half way there. Fearless? OF that I can not be sure, however, it is nice to have something important to think about, to think of throwing caution to the wind.


MODEL HEADS







Emmy Lou Harris





 Kristen McMenamy
model ,age 46
also on the cover of ITALIAN VOGUE






Cindy Joseph
model


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Yasmina Rossi
model




Julie Christie







see this Little Augury Post on COVERS Would VOGUE DARE? - HERE



Carmen Dell'Orifice





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DV: RE GREY


 

THE CONDE NAST PUBLICATIONS Inc.

To               BARON DE GUNZBURG    From MRS. VREELAND    April 14,1969
                   MRS SIMPSON
Copy to        MRS. SCHIFF
                   MRS. MELLEN
                   MRS DI MONTEZEMOLO
                   MRS. HOVEY
                   MISS DONOVAN
                   MRS. INGERSOLL
                   MISS MC KENNA
                   MRS. BUTLER
                   MISS WINKELHORN
                   MISS HAYS
                   MR. DUHE
                   MRS, BLACKMON
                   MISS CANNE
                   MISS MIRABELLA
                   MRS. FRANKEL

                   Let's promote grey.

                   For everything.

                  At the present moment how much grey have we got? 



    moral-of the DE: RE:  Think boldly, declare your Visions boldly.
                                     ASK for the details later.
  
another VISIONAIRE 37 memo
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WOULD VOGUE DARE?



Once upon a time when Edna Woolman Chase was Editor in Chief...


Chase started in the Vogue mail room and with her zest for the magazine-quickly advanced." When magazine was in danger of closing, and Chase took it upon herself to make sure Vogue was kept alive. Chase went on the road to persuade people to keep reading the magazine." (wiki) **Conde Nast bought the magazine 1909 and made Chase editor in chief in 1914.

The results:

Vogue cover by Cecil Beaton March 1948




In today's youth obsessed, starlet world, Would they dare put a woman like this on the cover? A gorgeous woman of indeterminable age, silver hair, with a classical Beaton background. Carmen Dell' Orefice would do nicely.





image from fashion tidbits (here)




image from HighValleyBooks (here)

Suggested reading, Chase's book Always in Vogue (1954)

** would Anna Wintour dare?

GRAY MATTERS



Groundwork's wood drop tassel fringe in DOVE
may peace be with you and your drapes

Jacques Grange
GrangeGray
a new book from Grange out this fall


a greyhound
chase away the blues

Alexander McQueen's silk chiffon scarf at net-a- porter
houndstooth & horror- a graymare

Marion Cotillard
French Grey


"gypset" chic gray

1900 grey

the ultimate film about conformity
don't do this gray

Persephone books
Grey matter


more gray matter


Classic Francois Catroux room
SoChic Grey
via this site

David Hick's Gray Flannel from Lee Jofa
designer gray

grayed, smoked and fired


Chinois Grisaille

Renzo Piano's new Modern Wing-Art Institute ofChicago
zone grise

gra b c's

the real Gray deal


Cole & Son's Haddon Hall Flocked paper
gray wall




Tom Ford's new fragrance Grey Vetiver
not just a suit gray

grisaille


Daniel Craig
Bond Grey
"A Steady Rain" on Broadway-Craig's gray debut***
& just named to the International Best Dressed List

Michael S. Smith's fabric "Gavle" at decorati
pretend you live a White House, decorate with gray


the new Dorian Gray movie opening in September
see the trailer here
Gray reflection


Fan Tree wallpaper in grey by Cole & Son
gray day


inspired by a friend, Berdorf's & Trouvais
**thanks Caftan Chronicles